The All American brings together bacon, eggs, potatoes, and a croissant.

It’s tough to ignore a restaurant name like Breakfast Bitch. Which could prove to be important, because the willfully sassy breakfast spot recently filled in a Hillcrest location that’s been devastating to its past few tenants. Since 2016, 3825 Fifth Avenue has been home to Korean fast casual, Persian fast casual, and a Which Wich franchise. None of these restaurants lasted long, but having visited each of them I can attest that Breakfast Bitch is the only one I’ve ever seen draw a crowd.

Maybe it’s the allure of that B-word, provocative enough that when Breakfast Bitch opened this summer, a Miami breakfast restaurant called Bacon Bitch quickly went after it with a trademark lawsuit. I guess that two-year-old Miami restaurant hasn’t heard of Biscuit Bitch, the Seattle breakfast eatery that established its first location more than a decade ago. At any rate, the ever playful staff at Breakfast Bitch report the suit went nowhere, so I’m assuming all Bitch-related breakfast restaurants are free to say, “Bitch, please,” and continue serving breakfast.

Basic B. pancakes topped with strawberries and chocolate chips

In the case of our everyday brunch destination, the breakfast menu starts with croissant sandwiches, the top seller being the All American: cheesy hash browns, bacon, sweet peppers, eggs to order, and additional cheddar cheese. At $13.80, it’s a bit pricier than most breakfast sandwiches, and not particularly special, but it is rather filling and tasty so I have no real complaints. If you want special, I’d suggest the New Yorker, which features steak ($15.25), or The Bougie, a benedict meets Florentine-style croissant sandwich stacked with spinach, poached egg, hollandaise, and most importantly lobster.

Many restaurants have tried out this location, Breakfast Bitch is the first with attitude.

That all falls under the Main Bitch header, whereas a Skinny Bitch section of the menu features vegan, low-carb, and low-calorie fare, highlighted by a green smoothie of kombucha, spinach, apple, banana, and pineapple ($7.95).

That one’s good, but I was mainly taken by the Basic Bitch pancakes, made to order with a range of 75 cent toppings including bananas, powdered sugar, strawberries, and chocolate chips. I paired the latter, and enjoyed the thick, fluffy, and savory pancakes whether or not I poured from the pitcher of maple syrup delivered to my table.

With its breakfast cocktails, Rosie the Riveter-styled logo, and cheeky reclamation of a pejorative term, Breakfast Bitch wins all kinds of style points, and that could be why Hillcrest diners have suddenly discovered that this narrow restaurant property on 5th Avenue exists. However, ultimately, it’s a better than average breakfast restaurant, dressed up with attitude and the occasional flair.