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Rain or shine, Pozoleria Acapulco

Two styles of broth lead the way for new family restaurant in Logan Heights

A bowl of warm pozole verde de pollo
A bowl of warm pozole verde de pollo

It didn’t have to be a cold and wet winter for me to seek out a pozeleria, but it hasn’t hurt to have the added motivation. In this case I first found myself driving through an evening rain to find soup in Logan Heights, and its month-old restaurant Pozoleria Acapulco.

Place

Pozoleria Acapulco

130 S 30th St, San Diego

The name pozeleria suggests pozole is the house specialty, and in fact there are two versions of the hominy soup: rojo and verde. By default, the rojo is prepared with pork, the verde with chicken, but they will switch it up if you ask.

Regardless, your $8.95 bowl will be swimming with toothsome hominy kernels, topped with shredded cabbage, and served alongside a plateful of other add-ins including avocado, cilantro, onions, jalapeños, radish slices, lime wedges, a crispy corn tortilla, and fried pork rinds, a.k.a. chicharrones. As if all that weren’t enough, there’s a potato rolled taco, great for dipping.

A plate of toppings to add to pozole

The big surprise for me was that neither red nor green pozole relies on chicken or any other animal stock as a base. Instead, the father-and-daughter team behind the new eatery ply recipes from his native Acapulco. The rojo broth shows a rich terra cotta hue, swirling with deeper red chili oils courtesy of a trio of red peppers, led by guajillo.

The verde broth starts with a green mole, made with ground pumpkin seeds and green chilies, and though its shade resembles salsa verde, there’s no tomatillo in it. But there is spinach and nopal cactus.

A new restaurant for Logan Heights

Without animal fats to enrich the broths, they wind up lighter both in flavor and body than most meaty soups. The nice thing is they’re neither over salted nor over spiced, so it’s up to customers to load their soup bowls with toppings to taste. A squeeze or two of lime brightened the earthy spices, and when the chicharrones softened in the hot liquid, they added a welcome, chewy dimension to the dish.

Each version presented a warming and healthful ward against the damp chill outside. I’d give the edge to the rojo over the verde, but it’s close. Either way, my preference would be the succulent and flavorful pork neck, an excellent part of the pig to find in soup.

Good sit-down restaurants are too rare a find in Logan Heights, and it’s great to see that, even when the weather warms up, Pozoleria Acapulco will stay relevant. Its signature soups are only two items on a larger menu that includes terrific flautas (potato or chicken), burritos, tortas, breakfast dishes, and a shellfish-laden, $20, two-person serving of paella Valenciana.

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A bowl of warm pozole verde de pollo
A bowl of warm pozole verde de pollo

It didn’t have to be a cold and wet winter for me to seek out a pozeleria, but it hasn’t hurt to have the added motivation. In this case I first found myself driving through an evening rain to find soup in Logan Heights, and its month-old restaurant Pozoleria Acapulco.

Place

Pozoleria Acapulco

130 S 30th St, San Diego

The name pozeleria suggests pozole is the house specialty, and in fact there are two versions of the hominy soup: rojo and verde. By default, the rojo is prepared with pork, the verde with chicken, but they will switch it up if you ask.

Regardless, your $8.95 bowl will be swimming with toothsome hominy kernels, topped with shredded cabbage, and served alongside a plateful of other add-ins including avocado, cilantro, onions, jalapeños, radish slices, lime wedges, a crispy corn tortilla, and fried pork rinds, a.k.a. chicharrones. As if all that weren’t enough, there’s a potato rolled taco, great for dipping.

A plate of toppings to add to pozole

The big surprise for me was that neither red nor green pozole relies on chicken or any other animal stock as a base. Instead, the father-and-daughter team behind the new eatery ply recipes from his native Acapulco. The rojo broth shows a rich terra cotta hue, swirling with deeper red chili oils courtesy of a trio of red peppers, led by guajillo.

The verde broth starts with a green mole, made with ground pumpkin seeds and green chilies, and though its shade resembles salsa verde, there’s no tomatillo in it. But there is spinach and nopal cactus.

A new restaurant for Logan Heights

Without animal fats to enrich the broths, they wind up lighter both in flavor and body than most meaty soups. The nice thing is they’re neither over salted nor over spiced, so it’s up to customers to load their soup bowls with toppings to taste. A squeeze or two of lime brightened the earthy spices, and when the chicharrones softened in the hot liquid, they added a welcome, chewy dimension to the dish.

Each version presented a warming and healthful ward against the damp chill outside. I’d give the edge to the rojo over the verde, but it’s close. Either way, my preference would be the succulent and flavorful pork neck, an excellent part of the pig to find in soup.

Good sit-down restaurants are too rare a find in Logan Heights, and it’s great to see that, even when the weather warms up, Pozoleria Acapulco will stay relevant. Its signature soups are only two items on a larger menu that includes terrific flautas (potato or chicken), burritos, tortas, breakfast dishes, and a shellfish-laden, $20, two-person serving of paella Valenciana.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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