Quantcast
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Rib tips are beckoning

“I just do this for a hobby.”

You can have three beef ribs, three pork ribs, or a mix
You can have three beef ribs, three pork ribs, or a mix
Place

Kim's Texas BBQ

4227 Market Street, San Diego

What is going on up here?

This is Chollas View-Mount Hope. Guess I’ve been looking for ribs in all the wrong places, heh heh.

What $6.50 buys: three ribs, two sides. Here: baked beans and candied yams

We’re talking Market Street in the 4200 area. Trundling east in the #5 bus. BBQ desert till, wow! One, two, three of them in two blocks. Pull the chain, hop out, start navigating my way back.

But here’s where it gets weird. First BBQ place has a really great name. “Bowlegged Bar.B.Que.” I go to the door. Locked! “Closed,” say a couple of signs. I can hear women laughing behind. But nobody comes to the door. Same with “Taste of Chicago Grill.” Big sign says “Now Open.” But a smaller sign below, and in the barred door, “Closed.”

This time of day? Headed for five?

Bernadine, Cheryll, Gwenette: happy customers

Lucky for me, in a set-back spot between, next to the Fenix Beauty Salon, here’s Kim’s BBQ. “Texas Style.” It has two “Open” signs in the window. And a couple of women ahead of me cross into a fenced tarmac area and to the front door.

It opens. Alright! I follow them in. Specially since I see a huge black smoker out behind that looks all business.

Inside’s pretty small and crowded with just the three of us here. Chunk! Chunk! Chunk! Guy in back’s using a cleaver to cut down ribs on a board. He’s a small wiry man. You can tell he’s done this a lot.

The giant smoker in the yard

The two ladies — Cheryll and Gwenette — are both going for the pork rib dinner. Cheryll’s getting the $9 deal, the ribs plus two sides. She’s getting baked beans and collard greens. (They have the whole southern line-up of sides, from collards to mac salad, potato salad, candied yams, red beans, rice, on and on.)

I’m still hemming and hawing when another lady comes in. Bernadine. She knows the others. Lots of conversation. Lots of laughs. She orders a BBQ rib dinner, a BBQ chicken dinner, potato salad, yams, and cornbread. She has a family to feed.

Looking at the yellow menu panels, I can see this place is going to be a go-ood deal. All dinners — that’s beef rib, pork rib, brisket (the meat above the shank of the leg), and chicken — are $9 with two sides. Top price seems to be for chitterlings (mainly intestines), $15 with two sides. But if you’re light in the pocketbook, they have sandwiches that look like total deals. Like hot link for $2.50, beef brisket for $4, beef or pork rib for $5.50. Or just half a chicken’s $4.50. Then if you want to go for straight ribs, a half slab of beef is $6, or pork is $9.

“I’ll go for the special,” says Gwenette.

Wilbert: learned ribs Oklahoma-style from his dad, Hugo

Oh yeah? She’s pointing down to an incredible offer of 3 ribs (pork or beef) plus 2 side orders for $6.50. Also on the specials list: a hot link with a side order ($3.50), or a whole slab of pork with two 16-oz sides for $21.99.

The gent running this — moving between the chopping block, the microwaves, and the front counter — is Wilbert. He’s from Oklahoma. “I make everything here,” he says. “Nothing comes from outside.”

So he must be cooking it all, from cornbread to collards, to those slabs of pawk.

Okay, so now, my turn. Got to take the daily special. Three pork ribs plus sides of baked beans, and hey, candied yams are addictive in the way chocolate is.

“Like a beef rib with two pork?” he says.

“For sure. Thanks,” I say.

Wilbert is definitely old-school. Although he has bent a little to BBQ sauces here in California. “In Oklahoma, my Dad, name’s Hugo, was used to Texas sauce or the Carolinas. More savory. More vinegar. Here I’ve gone to more sweet. It’s what people like.”

Then he’s back whacking ribs and warming up my beans and yams. One of the ladies is agreeing how the BBQ sauces back east were more vinegary, but that ever since Mr. Heinz brought in his ketchup (in 1857, says Google), most places caved in and made his sauce the basis for their sauce.

Goodness gracious: Wilbert brings me my polystyrene box. The thing’s packed. And when I take it outside to eat at the one table there, the ribs are delicious, and big. Even the beef is tender. But also their sauce is more savory than sweet. And actually, it’s the smoke that dominates everything. You know these babies have been in that big black barrel for hours.

’Course the baked beans and specially the candied yams more than make up in the sweetness department. Wilbert gave me two slices of bread, and they nicely counter some of the richness.

Two guys come in and order rib tips. Tips?

“I didn’t see that on the menu,” I say, as I’m bringing in the rest of my meal for a to-go bag.

“They’re not on the menu,” says Rodney. He’s been coming in for ten years. “You’ve got to ask for it. But he always has them. Same price as the regular ribs.”

Man, pays to know insiders. Guys say the tips are the most tender. I thought it was the other way round, but what do I know?

What I do know is this place is a discovery. A deal. And real. Wilbert says his dad Hugo had a BBQ place on Imperial Avenue, when they first came. “I just do this for a hobby,” he says.

Some hobby.

Next time, I’m going to leave space for a dessert, like the red velvet cake for $2, or a peach cobbler ($3), or sweet potato pie ($2).

One thing I forgot to ask was about Kim. Who’s Kim? Guess I’ll have to ask Wilbert when I come back. Rib tips are beckoning.

The Place: Kim’s BBQ, 4227 Market Street #101, Chollas View, 619-527-0880

Hours: 11am – 8pm, daily (till 6pm Sundays); closed Monday

Prices: Hot link sandwich, $2.50; with side, $3.50; beef brisket sandwich, $4; beef or pork rib sandwich, $5.50; half chicken, $4.50; chitterlings, $15 (with two sides); half slab of beef ribs, $6, half slab pork ribs, $9; beef rib dinner, $9; pork rib dinner, $9; brisket, $9; chicken, $9. All dinners come with two sides. Choice includes baked beans, collard greens, mac salad, potato salad, candied yams, red beans, rice

Bus: 5

Nearest Bus Stop: Morrison Street

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

What a teachers union has done to Gompers

29 teachers laid off in June, re-hired in July
Next Article

Imagine a pedestrian-friendly Kearny Mesa

Hard to consider history in 30-year plan
You can have three beef ribs, three pork ribs, or a mix
You can have three beef ribs, three pork ribs, or a mix
Place

Kim's Texas BBQ

4227 Market Street, San Diego

What is going on up here?

This is Chollas View-Mount Hope. Guess I’ve been looking for ribs in all the wrong places, heh heh.

What $6.50 buys: three ribs, two sides. Here: baked beans and candied yams

We’re talking Market Street in the 4200 area. Trundling east in the #5 bus. BBQ desert till, wow! One, two, three of them in two blocks. Pull the chain, hop out, start navigating my way back.

But here’s where it gets weird. First BBQ place has a really great name. “Bowlegged Bar.B.Que.” I go to the door. Locked! “Closed,” say a couple of signs. I can hear women laughing behind. But nobody comes to the door. Same with “Taste of Chicago Grill.” Big sign says “Now Open.” But a smaller sign below, and in the barred door, “Closed.”

This time of day? Headed for five?

Bernadine, Cheryll, Gwenette: happy customers

Lucky for me, in a set-back spot between, next to the Fenix Beauty Salon, here’s Kim’s BBQ. “Texas Style.” It has two “Open” signs in the window. And a couple of women ahead of me cross into a fenced tarmac area and to the front door.

It opens. Alright! I follow them in. Specially since I see a huge black smoker out behind that looks all business.

Inside’s pretty small and crowded with just the three of us here. Chunk! Chunk! Chunk! Guy in back’s using a cleaver to cut down ribs on a board. He’s a small wiry man. You can tell he’s done this a lot.

The giant smoker in the yard

The two ladies — Cheryll and Gwenette — are both going for the pork rib dinner. Cheryll’s getting the $9 deal, the ribs plus two sides. She’s getting baked beans and collard greens. (They have the whole southern line-up of sides, from collards to mac salad, potato salad, candied yams, red beans, rice, on and on.)

I’m still hemming and hawing when another lady comes in. Bernadine. She knows the others. Lots of conversation. Lots of laughs. She orders a BBQ rib dinner, a BBQ chicken dinner, potato salad, yams, and cornbread. She has a family to feed.

Looking at the yellow menu panels, I can see this place is going to be a go-ood deal. All dinners — that’s beef rib, pork rib, brisket (the meat above the shank of the leg), and chicken — are $9 with two sides. Top price seems to be for chitterlings (mainly intestines), $15 with two sides. But if you’re light in the pocketbook, they have sandwiches that look like total deals. Like hot link for $2.50, beef brisket for $4, beef or pork rib for $5.50. Or just half a chicken’s $4.50. Then if you want to go for straight ribs, a half slab of beef is $6, or pork is $9.

“I’ll go for the special,” says Gwenette.

Wilbert: learned ribs Oklahoma-style from his dad, Hugo

Oh yeah? She’s pointing down to an incredible offer of 3 ribs (pork or beef) plus 2 side orders for $6.50. Also on the specials list: a hot link with a side order ($3.50), or a whole slab of pork with two 16-oz sides for $21.99.

The gent running this — moving between the chopping block, the microwaves, and the front counter — is Wilbert. He’s from Oklahoma. “I make everything here,” he says. “Nothing comes from outside.”

So he must be cooking it all, from cornbread to collards, to those slabs of pawk.

Okay, so now, my turn. Got to take the daily special. Three pork ribs plus sides of baked beans, and hey, candied yams are addictive in the way chocolate is.

“Like a beef rib with two pork?” he says.

“For sure. Thanks,” I say.

Wilbert is definitely old-school. Although he has bent a little to BBQ sauces here in California. “In Oklahoma, my Dad, name’s Hugo, was used to Texas sauce or the Carolinas. More savory. More vinegar. Here I’ve gone to more sweet. It’s what people like.”

Then he’s back whacking ribs and warming up my beans and yams. One of the ladies is agreeing how the BBQ sauces back east were more vinegary, but that ever since Mr. Heinz brought in his ketchup (in 1857, says Google), most places caved in and made his sauce the basis for their sauce.

Goodness gracious: Wilbert brings me my polystyrene box. The thing’s packed. And when I take it outside to eat at the one table there, the ribs are delicious, and big. Even the beef is tender. But also their sauce is more savory than sweet. And actually, it’s the smoke that dominates everything. You know these babies have been in that big black barrel for hours.

’Course the baked beans and specially the candied yams more than make up in the sweetness department. Wilbert gave me two slices of bread, and they nicely counter some of the richness.

Two guys come in and order rib tips. Tips?

“I didn’t see that on the menu,” I say, as I’m bringing in the rest of my meal for a to-go bag.

“They’re not on the menu,” says Rodney. He’s been coming in for ten years. “You’ve got to ask for it. But he always has them. Same price as the regular ribs.”

Man, pays to know insiders. Guys say the tips are the most tender. I thought it was the other way round, but what do I know?

What I do know is this place is a discovery. A deal. And real. Wilbert says his dad Hugo had a BBQ place on Imperial Avenue, when they first came. “I just do this for a hobby,” he says.

Some hobby.

Next time, I’m going to leave space for a dessert, like the red velvet cake for $2, or a peach cobbler ($3), or sweet potato pie ($2).

One thing I forgot to ask was about Kim. Who’s Kim? Guess I’ll have to ask Wilbert when I come back. Rib tips are beckoning.

The Place: Kim’s BBQ, 4227 Market Street #101, Chollas View, 619-527-0880

Hours: 11am – 8pm, daily (till 6pm Sundays); closed Monday

Prices: Hot link sandwich, $2.50; with side, $3.50; beef brisket sandwich, $4; beef or pork rib sandwich, $5.50; half chicken, $4.50; chitterlings, $15 (with two sides); half slab of beef ribs, $6, half slab pork ribs, $9; beef rib dinner, $9; pork rib dinner, $9; brisket, $9; chicken, $9. All dinners come with two sides. Choice includes baked beans, collard greens, mac salad, potato salad, candied yams, red beans, rice

Bus: 5

Nearest Bus Stop: Morrison Street

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pepper covers Sublime for The House That Bradley Built comp

Hirie, G. Love, the Expanders, Common Kings, the Skints, Long Beach Dub Allstars, and Trevor Young also contribute
Next Article

Space Truckin’

Ace Frehley, Travis Barker, Tolan Shaw, Andy Robinson, Thousand Below
Comments
5
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
Nov. 16, 2018

There are two excellent things that come from Oklahoma: wonderful music and singers, and delicious comfort food.

Nov. 16, 2018

Mount Hope?! That's something Dolores never did, I wanna tell ya'. Hey, but seriously, what's the big deal about rib tips? My Bubbie and Zadie always told me they were 50% fat and 50% gristle.

Nov. 16, 2018

I always enjoy, maybe not agree with, Ed's reviews. One thing I don't enjoy is food that is microwaved. Reading this concerns Yelp reviews says he nukes the food while it is in the styrofoam container.

Nov. 16, 2018

Same as Rush Limbaugh!

Nov. 16, 2018

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Art Reviews — W.S. Di Piero's eye on exhibits Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Best Buys — San Diego shopping Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits City Lights — News and politics Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Famous Former Neighbors — Next-door celebs Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Here's the Deal — Chad Deal's watering holes Just Announced — The scoop on shows Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Of Note — Concert picks Out & About — What's Happening Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Pour Over — Grab a cup Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer News — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Set 'em Up Joe — Bartenders' drink recipes Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Sports — Athletics without gush Street Style — San Diego streets have style Suit Up — Fashion tips for dudes Theater Reviews — Local productions Theater antireviews — Narrow your search Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Waterfront — All things ocean Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close