Quantcast
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

The world, and where to find it

A global appetite, after Bourdain

Tomato, onion, paprika, bay leaves, parsley, and stewed beef. The Hungarian dish, goulash, made and served in San Diego.
Tomato, onion, paprika, bay leaves, parsley, and stewed beef. The Hungarian dish, goulash, made and served in San Diego.
Place

Kaiserhof

2253 Sunset Cliffs Boulevard, San Diego

When a friend recently sought tips on local eateries he could take his children to learn about the food of foreign cultures, one of the first that came to mind was Kaiserhof. For over 30 years, the Ocean Beach restaurant and biergarten has employed dirndl-wearing waitresses to dish out authentically German dishes (and beers). In recommending it, I realized it had been nearly a year since my last visit, so I plotted a Friday evening return.

Over 30 years serving authentic German dining in Ocean Beach.

Inside its polished, white linened dining room, 20- to 30-dollar entrees highlight the classics of Deutschland fare, such as wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, and several types of würste. It looks nice in there, but I’ve always skipped it in favor of the biergarten, really a covered patio offering televised sports and pitchers of crisp, imported lagers. Not only do I prefer the more casual atmosphere, but there’s a biergarten menu offering smaller portions of select entrees for half the price.

It’s a place I’ve enjoyed house-made bratwurst and kasespatzle (a.k.a. German macaroni and cheese), and it’s easily the top spot in town to watch Germany play in the World Cup. Because when Germans in attendance belt out traditional Fußballmannschaft songs each time their team scores a goal, the confluence of food and culture offers a small, joyful window into Bavarian life.

Admittedly, I didn’t bring joy with me to that early Friday dinner, but gloom. I’d awakened that morning to the news Anthony Bourdain had taken his own life, and my day had been filled with sorrowful remembrance of an incredible storyteller — part philosopher, poet, and journalist — who’d stoked my interest for the food of the world, including Germany. Including the United States, and for that matter, my own kitchen.

Much of the morning had been spent commiserating with fellow foodies and food writers, people who, like me, had spent hours devouring his books and TV shows. Who’d scheduled vacation days around eating food Bourdain had encouraged we try, in places he’d encouraged us to see.

With a tall glass of beer in hand, I toasted the man, over an order of goulash. It's really a Hungarian dish, but since we don't have a dedicated Hungarian restaurant, I've come here to find it. Only a week prior, I’d dialed up the Budapest episode of Bourdain’s CNN travel show Parts Unknown. As was often the case, by time the episode ended I found myself pricing travel itineraries to visit Budapest, primed to marvel at its architecture and gorge on paprika-laden dishes, like goulash.

I didn’t book that trip. I might someday, but know that I won’t see most of the places Bourdain shared. My best bet is to seek out restaurants like Kaiserhof, which offer versions of dishes covered on his shows. For $14.50, Kaiserhof served me a wonderfully simple plate of goulash: tender, tomato- and onion-stewed chunks of beef, loaded with paprika and bay leaves, served over chewy, handmade spatzle noodles.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

I Am My Brother's Keeper gets a Lyft gift

AB 5 foe gives $5000 in free rides for charity, thanks to Monica Montgomery
Next Article

I Am My Brother's Keeper gets a Lyft gift

AB 5 foe gives $5000 in free rides for charity, thanks to Monica Montgomery
Comments
5
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 12, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 29, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 29, 2018

When I hear the name Kaiserhof, I think of Eleanor Widmer a food critic in The Reader spanning decades. I believe she hated the place and occasionally took the liberty of saying something about the pretentious food they prepare. By the way, Kaiserhof has not been in Ocean Beach for thirty years, most of their existence was off Adobe Falls Road next to a rent-by-the-month motel (near Interstate 8 & Waring Road).

June 29, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
Sept. 24, 2018

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Tomato, onion, paprika, bay leaves, parsley, and stewed beef. The Hungarian dish, goulash, made and served in San Diego.
Tomato, onion, paprika, bay leaves, parsley, and stewed beef. The Hungarian dish, goulash, made and served in San Diego.
Place

Kaiserhof

2253 Sunset Cliffs Boulevard, San Diego

When a friend recently sought tips on local eateries he could take his children to learn about the food of foreign cultures, one of the first that came to mind was Kaiserhof. For over 30 years, the Ocean Beach restaurant and biergarten has employed dirndl-wearing waitresses to dish out authentically German dishes (and beers). In recommending it, I realized it had been nearly a year since my last visit, so I plotted a Friday evening return.

Over 30 years serving authentic German dining in Ocean Beach.

Inside its polished, white linened dining room, 20- to 30-dollar entrees highlight the classics of Deutschland fare, such as wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, and several types of würste. It looks nice in there, but I’ve always skipped it in favor of the biergarten, really a covered patio offering televised sports and pitchers of crisp, imported lagers. Not only do I prefer the more casual atmosphere, but there’s a biergarten menu offering smaller portions of select entrees for half the price.

It’s a place I’ve enjoyed house-made bratwurst and kasespatzle (a.k.a. German macaroni and cheese), and it’s easily the top spot in town to watch Germany play in the World Cup. Because when Germans in attendance belt out traditional Fußballmannschaft songs each time their team scores a goal, the confluence of food and culture offers a small, joyful window into Bavarian life.

Admittedly, I didn’t bring joy with me to that early Friday dinner, but gloom. I’d awakened that morning to the news Anthony Bourdain had taken his own life, and my day had been filled with sorrowful remembrance of an incredible storyteller — part philosopher, poet, and journalist — who’d stoked my interest for the food of the world, including Germany. Including the United States, and for that matter, my own kitchen.

Much of the morning had been spent commiserating with fellow foodies and food writers, people who, like me, had spent hours devouring his books and TV shows. Who’d scheduled vacation days around eating food Bourdain had encouraged we try, in places he’d encouraged us to see.

With a tall glass of beer in hand, I toasted the man, over an order of goulash. It's really a Hungarian dish, but since we don't have a dedicated Hungarian restaurant, I've come here to find it. Only a week prior, I’d dialed up the Budapest episode of Bourdain’s CNN travel show Parts Unknown. As was often the case, by time the episode ended I found myself pricing travel itineraries to visit Budapest, primed to marvel at its architecture and gorge on paprika-laden dishes, like goulash.

I didn’t book that trip. I might someday, but know that I won’t see most of the places Bourdain shared. My best bet is to seek out restaurants like Kaiserhof, which offer versions of dishes covered on his shows. For $14.50, Kaiserhof served me a wonderfully simple plate of goulash: tender, tomato- and onion-stewed chunks of beef, loaded with paprika and bay leaves, served over chewy, handmade spatzle noodles.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Will California let home owners save the beach?

Patricia Bates bill will let individuals armor the bluffs
Next Article

Al Capone’s film legacy

“I think it’s a good social document. It shows how an unscrupulous man can prey on society.”
Comments
5
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 12, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 29, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
June 29, 2018

When I hear the name Kaiserhof, I think of Eleanor Widmer a food critic in The Reader spanning decades. I believe she hated the place and occasionally took the liberty of saying something about the pretentious food they prepare. By the way, Kaiserhof has not been in Ocean Beach for thirty years, most of their existence was off Adobe Falls Road next to a rent-by-the-month motel (near Interstate 8 & Waring Road).

June 29, 2018
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
Sept. 24, 2018

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Art Reviews — W.S. Di Piero's eye on exhibits Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Best Buys — San Diego shopping Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits City Lights — News and politics Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Famous Former Neighbors — Next-door celebs Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Here's the Deal — Chad Deal's watering holes Just Announced — The scoop on shows Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Of Note — Concert picks Out & About — What's Happening Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Pour Over — Grab a cup Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer News — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Set 'em Up Joe — Bartenders' drink recipes Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Sports — Athletics without gush Street Style — San Diego streets have style Suit Up — Fashion tips for dudes Theater Reviews — Local productions Theater antireviews — Narrow your search Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Waterfront — All things ocean Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close