A simple hickory smoked brisket sandwich on potato bun.
  • A simple hickory smoked brisket sandwich on potato bun.
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The thought of a food court evokes strong sensory memories burned into my consciousness by the presence of trashy mall franchises: the baked cinnamon aromas of Cinnabon, the pulpy viscosity of Orange Julius, the slab of cheesy pizza crust of Sbarro, or the ridiculous primary color costumes of Hot Dog on a Stick.

Smokin' Blaine's BBQ

5500 Grossmont Center Drive, La Mesa

When I passed through by the food court on the way to see a movie at La Mesa's Grossmont Center the other day, I didn't find any of that. Yes, there were a few recognizable franchises — hello Wetzel's Pretzels — but there were a number of independent restaurants.

This BBQ joint doesn't look like a mall restaurant.

This BBQ joint doesn't look like a mall restaurant.

Around a back corner, next to the Macy's, I came upon Smokin' Blaine's BBQ. It looks nothing like a mall food stand, fully enclosed in a vintage-styled wood and tile storefront. But the surprise is the place takes Texas BBQ seriously. This place ain't slinging fast food; owner Blaine takes the time to smoke meats appropriately slow and low, including a brisket that goes 10-14 hours.

The place opens a mere three and a half hours for lunch — 11:00 am til 2:30 — and only on weekdays. That'll make it tough for 9 to 5ers who don't live nearby.

The $6.99 hickory smoked brisket sandwich I ordered ($8.50 with a side) kept it simple — meat and sauce on a pillowy soft potato bun. I found the brisket juicy and tender, though with a little chew to gnash your teeth on. The sauce contributed a decent balance of tang and brown sugar sweetness. While I liked it, I didn't feel the need to dip into the extra ramekin of sauce Blaine provided.

I picked up the sandwich as a lunch special offered that day that included fries and baked beans for about nine bucks total. Satisfying chunks of pork floated amid the beans. Next time, I'll order what Blaine's menu dubs "the Texas way" — mixing and matching meats. A hot link for $4, baby back ribs at $2 each, and pulled pork at $4 per quarter pound.

And there will definitely be a next time. Turns out the Grossmont Center movie theater now has a new big screen auditorium equipped with Dolby Atmos 32 channel surround sound. Ribs and immersive movie experiences just became my new favorite excuse to put off writing Feast stories and spending the afternoon in La Mesa.

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Comments

TommyB Aug. 25, 2017 @ 12:37 p.m.

Am going to have to try this place out! You really need to head out to PB and try the new Primitive Smoke BBQ restaurant. That's some high quality stuff!

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Mercy Baron Aug. 25, 2017 @ 3:21 p.m.

Sadly, Primitive Smoke went out of business earlier this week. Owner told me he gave up the biz, lock, stock, barrel and name to the landlord. They just weren't doing that well. Probably being down the street from the already established and delicious Iron Pig Alehouse, rents in Pacific Beach and only a few seats for customers contributed to their demise. Landlord thinks he's going to continue with that name and who knows who in the kitchen. Unless he hires a bona fide pit boss, I don't see much hope in it succeeding either. I gave them a great review on my bbq blog a few months ago, but will probably remove it soon. I also just included them in my BBQ Heater map for Eater.com.

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