Quantcast
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Yucca flour and spice rule in Point Loma

Brazil by the Sports Arena

A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate —  with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate — with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.

If you've ever driven up Hancock Street where the 8 meets the 5 in the northeast corner of Point Loma, you know that the one-way stretch slowly loops through an old industrial area that wouldn't be of much use to anyone who hasn't had their car towed, except that there are a growing number of beer and coffee businesses back there. Also back there is one of the city's least likely restaurant locations.

Place

Brazil by the Bay Restaurant and Sports Bar

2676 Kurtz Street, San Diego

This Brazilian restaurant and market are hidden behind the sports arena.

Brazil by the Bay is technically by Mission Bay as the crow flies, but all I could see through the casual eatery's windows was the backside of the Sports Arena. A banner strung across the old venue informed me that San Diego has a hockey team. Go Gulls, I guess. Just don't ask for a new stadium.

I've eaten enough Brazilian food to know that I enjoy it, but not enough to learn the lingo. "What's farofa?" I had to ask my waitress. Turns out it's the accurate term for toasted yucca flour, which is actually one of the unlikely reasons I'm fond of Brazilian cuisine.

There's barely anything to farofa — it doesn't really even rate as a side dish. It's essentially a dry condiment, resembling a pile of bread crumbs, and often similarly seasoned. But when you mix it with your side of rice and beans, it gives them a pleasing, gritty, crunchy texture. Same with meats.

Yes, churrasco grilled meats top the list of reasons to dine Brazilian, so as I perused the menu's Prato Feito options (that loosely translates to combo plate), I found myself choosing between beef, chicken, fish, and calabresa — the Brazilian take on Portuguese linguiça sausage (each ranged between 12 and 14 bucks).

I chose the latter, served acebolado (with onions). I'd barely been there five minutes and already this place was improving my understanding of Portuguese. All of the other patrons spoke it to the restaurant staff, with some familiarity. I take that as a good sign — if the place has Brazilian regulars, it must be doing something right.

The finely minced sausage was served sliced, with caramelized onions, so as I started mixing up my plate's red beans, rice, and farofa, it seemed easier to mix the sausage and onions together as well. That yucca flour crunch, it works just as well to dress meat.

The waitress brought one last element to tie the dish together: malagueta chile sauce. That's another Brazilian mainstay, made with the high scoville malagueta pepper. Its bright, fruity spice has some real kick, and even with the lightest splash I could feel some burn.

My prato tasted just fine without it (nothing earth-shaking) but adding the spice gave my dish that touch of exotic flavor that makes eating another culture's food so worthwhile. Brazil by the Bay also features a small Brazilian market where you may buy farofa, calabresa, malagueta, and other South American specialties.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Vista squeezes pot clinics with 4375 percent fee rise

While Oceanside ponders the storefronts
Next Article

Alison Tummond: preventing summer’s silent killer

“Anytime you have a pool, or a bathtub, or a toilet, or a bucket, a child can drown.”
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate —  with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate — with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.

If you've ever driven up Hancock Street where the 8 meets the 5 in the northeast corner of Point Loma, you know that the one-way stretch slowly loops through an old industrial area that wouldn't be of much use to anyone who hasn't had their car towed, except that there are a growing number of beer and coffee businesses back there. Also back there is one of the city's least likely restaurant locations.

Place

Brazil by the Bay Restaurant and Sports Bar

2676 Kurtz Street, San Diego

This Brazilian restaurant and market are hidden behind the sports arena.

Brazil by the Bay is technically by Mission Bay as the crow flies, but all I could see through the casual eatery's windows was the backside of the Sports Arena. A banner strung across the old venue informed me that San Diego has a hockey team. Go Gulls, I guess. Just don't ask for a new stadium.

I've eaten enough Brazilian food to know that I enjoy it, but not enough to learn the lingo. "What's farofa?" I had to ask my waitress. Turns out it's the accurate term for toasted yucca flour, which is actually one of the unlikely reasons I'm fond of Brazilian cuisine.

There's barely anything to farofa — it doesn't really even rate as a side dish. It's essentially a dry condiment, resembling a pile of bread crumbs, and often similarly seasoned. But when you mix it with your side of rice and beans, it gives them a pleasing, gritty, crunchy texture. Same with meats.

Yes, churrasco grilled meats top the list of reasons to dine Brazilian, so as I perused the menu's Prato Feito options (that loosely translates to combo plate), I found myself choosing between beef, chicken, fish, and calabresa — the Brazilian take on Portuguese linguiça sausage (each ranged between 12 and 14 bucks).

I chose the latter, served acebolado (with onions). I'd barely been there five minutes and already this place was improving my understanding of Portuguese. All of the other patrons spoke it to the restaurant staff, with some familiarity. I take that as a good sign — if the place has Brazilian regulars, it must be doing something right.

The finely minced sausage was served sliced, with caramelized onions, so as I started mixing up my plate's red beans, rice, and farofa, it seemed easier to mix the sausage and onions together as well. That yucca flour crunch, it works just as well to dress meat.

The waitress brought one last element to tie the dish together: malagueta chile sauce. That's another Brazilian mainstay, made with the high scoville malagueta pepper. Its bright, fruity spice has some real kick, and even with the lightest splash I could feel some burn.

My prato tasted just fine without it (nothing earth-shaking) but adding the spice gave my dish that touch of exotic flavor that makes eating another culture's food so worthwhile. Brazil by the Bay also features a small Brazilian market where you may buy farofa, calabresa, malagueta, and other South American specialties.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Hard times for San Diego County cities

Hard times for 17 San Diego County cities
Next Article

Three poems for August by Dorothy Parker

With an acidic wit and keen eye for flawed humanity
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Art Reviews — W.S. Di Piero's eye on exhibits Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Best Buys — San Diego shopping Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits City Lights — News and politics Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Famous Former Neighbors — Next-door celebs Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Here's the Deal — Chad Deal's watering holes Just Announced — The scoop on shows Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Of Note — Concert picks Out & About — What's Happening Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Pour Over — Grab a cup Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer News — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Set 'em Up Joe — Bartenders' drink recipes Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Sports — Athletics without gush Street Style — San Diego streets have style Suit Up — Fashion tips for dudes Theater Reviews — Local productions Theater antireviews — Narrow your search Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Waterfront — All things ocean Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close