Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Chicken hearted

Eating adventurously at Char House

Vietnamese skewers, left to right: filet mignon, pork belly, quail eggs, chicken livers, and chicken hearts
Vietnamese skewers, left to right: filet mignon, pork belly, quail eggs, chicken livers, and chicken hearts
Place

Char House

7767 Balboa Avenue, San Diego

Word of a new Vietnamese restaurant off the Convoy restaurant row in Kearny Mesa got me wondering whether my next lunch would involve bánh mì, pho, or bún, aka vermicelli noodles.

All are included on the deep menu at Char House Saigon Grill and Pho. But the specialty of the house is the assortment of grilled skewers. These range in price from about $1.50 each to $2.50, the latter options being filet mignon or shrimp grilled on a stick of sugar cane rather than wood.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Since they were running a special — five skewers for eight bucks — trying a variety of options was an easy choice. Since I’d brought along a Vietnamese friend to share, getting my choice of skewers would be tougher.

Char House turns a pair of strip mall storefronts into a local destination for Vietnamese cuisine.

If I ate shrimp, I’m sure the sugar cane option would have been great, or perhaps another option which leaves both head and shell of the bottom feeder intact. Since I don’t, my tendency is to gravitate toward the filet — maybe the pork belly, white-meat chicken, or octopus. The veggie options looked good too, including asparagus, okra, roasted garlic, and shitake mushrooms.

I like to advocate eating adventurously, but in truth I have my limits and shy away from trying very scary-sounding things. For example, at a popular Chula Vista barbacoa spot recently, an employee gently encouraged me to give lamb eyeballs a chance. That right there was my limit.

But at Char House my friend was pretty convincing, so before I really understood what I was getting myself into I heard myself ordering chicken liver, chicken gizzard, and chicken heart.

Take your pick which puts you most ill at ease. I’m personally comfortable eating liver — chopped liver, pâtés, all good. I know what to expect. The gizzard made me nervous. “It’s kind of chewy,” my friend said. But chicken heart…that flat-out scared me.

I was in luck. The restaurant was out of gizzard this day, and we subbed in another interesting choice: quail eggs. But the heart was in plentiful supply, and before long I was actually eating it. And loving it. Much more tender than I’d thought it would be and without the thick chewy veins or arteries I had imagined. Just a flavorful little piece of chicken on a stick, well cooked, and complemented by a side of tangy green sauce made with salt and sugar cane and secret, fruity ingredients our waiter would not reveal.

Granted, the steak was my favorite, and the hardboiled-then-grilled quail eggs were interesting. But the heart ranked up there, just ahead of the liver. I even preferred it to the pork belly which, grilled on a stick, winds up tasting like chewy, light-on-flavor bacon.

Char House delivered a great dining experience and bolstered my adventurous foodie cred. I may even return to brave that gizzard. But I’d still rather be boring than eat eyeballs.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Sessions marijuana lounge looks to fall opening in National City

How will they police this area?
Next Article

Gringos who drive to Zona Rio for mental help

The trip from Whittier via Utah to Playas
Vietnamese skewers, left to right: filet mignon, pork belly, quail eggs, chicken livers, and chicken hearts
Vietnamese skewers, left to right: filet mignon, pork belly, quail eggs, chicken livers, and chicken hearts
Place

Char House

7767 Balboa Avenue, San Diego

Word of a new Vietnamese restaurant off the Convoy restaurant row in Kearny Mesa got me wondering whether my next lunch would involve bánh mì, pho, or bún, aka vermicelli noodles.

All are included on the deep menu at Char House Saigon Grill and Pho. But the specialty of the house is the assortment of grilled skewers. These range in price from about $1.50 each to $2.50, the latter options being filet mignon or shrimp grilled on a stick of sugar cane rather than wood.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Since they were running a special — five skewers for eight bucks — trying a variety of options was an easy choice. Since I’d brought along a Vietnamese friend to share, getting my choice of skewers would be tougher.

Char House turns a pair of strip mall storefronts into a local destination for Vietnamese cuisine.

If I ate shrimp, I’m sure the sugar cane option would have been great, or perhaps another option which leaves both head and shell of the bottom feeder intact. Since I don’t, my tendency is to gravitate toward the filet — maybe the pork belly, white-meat chicken, or octopus. The veggie options looked good too, including asparagus, okra, roasted garlic, and shitake mushrooms.

I like to advocate eating adventurously, but in truth I have my limits and shy away from trying very scary-sounding things. For example, at a popular Chula Vista barbacoa spot recently, an employee gently encouraged me to give lamb eyeballs a chance. That right there was my limit.

But at Char House my friend was pretty convincing, so before I really understood what I was getting myself into I heard myself ordering chicken liver, chicken gizzard, and chicken heart.

Take your pick which puts you most ill at ease. I’m personally comfortable eating liver — chopped liver, pâtés, all good. I know what to expect. The gizzard made me nervous. “It’s kind of chewy,” my friend said. But chicken heart…that flat-out scared me.

I was in luck. The restaurant was out of gizzard this day, and we subbed in another interesting choice: quail eggs. But the heart was in plentiful supply, and before long I was actually eating it. And loving it. Much more tender than I’d thought it would be and without the thick chewy veins or arteries I had imagined. Just a flavorful little piece of chicken on a stick, well cooked, and complemented by a side of tangy green sauce made with salt and sugar cane and secret, fruity ingredients our waiter would not reveal.

Granted, the steak was my favorite, and the hardboiled-then-grilled quail eggs were interesting. But the heart ranked up there, just ahead of the liver. I even preferred it to the pork belly which, grilled on a stick, winds up tasting like chewy, light-on-flavor bacon.

Char House delivered a great dining experience and bolstered my adventurous foodie cred. I may even return to brave that gizzard. But I’d still rather be boring than eat eyeballs.

Comments
Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Ed Kornhauser, Peter Sprague, Stepping Feet, The Thieves About, Benches

The music of Carole King and more in La Jolla, Carlsbad, Little Italy
Next Article

Sessions marijuana lounge looks to fall opening in National City

How will they police this area?
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.