Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat - the main temple
Angkor Wat - the main temple

One hundred and fifty years ago, a French naturalist wandering the jungles of Cambodia stumbled upon an archaeological gold mine.

Hidden in the jungle were several temples built by a succession of rulers of the Khmer Empire between the 9th and 12th centuries. King Jayavarman II laid the foundations for the empire in the 9th century, and Angkor remained the capital of the Khmer Empire in Cambodia for the next 400 years.

The Angkor Archaeological Park is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and efforts are being made, after years of neglect and deterioration, to maintain and protect the site. The Angkor temples – the largest temple complex in the world – are collectively one of the architectural and cultural wonders of Southeast Asia.

The most famous temple at Angkor, the Angkor Wat temple, was constructed in the early 12th century and is by far the most well known. It's also the largest religious structure in the world.

I was captivated by the breadth and variety of the Angkor temples during my stay in nearby Siem Reap, Cambodia. Like Teotihuacan in Mexico, Angkor was known as the city of the gods, and the temples were constructed and decorated to represent their cosmological perspective. In the case of the Angkor temples, they were a dedication to the Hindu gods.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Also similar to Teotihuacan, there are temples to climb, but if you tire of this, just relax and reflect on what these buildings might have looked like a millennia ago. Try to imagine the ancient city’s bustle of activity.

The temples were actually surrounded by cities and villages in those days, but the homes of the people were built out of wood and have dissolved away over the centuries. The temples survived, as they were built from more durable materials such as brick and sandstone.

At its height, Angkor had a population of one million people – the largest pre-industrial city in the world. Reservoirs were built and an irrigation system brought water to the towns. The area was mysteriously abandoned, but some suspect climate change was a factor, which might have interfered with the water supply.

If you visit here, set aside at least three days to do the temples justice – you won't regret it. You can bike around the ruins, although some of the more interesting ones are distances apart. It’s easier to hire a tuk tuk driver to take you from one temple to the next. Expect to pay $40-50 for three days. For a higher fee, you can hire a guide to provide more detailed explanation of the historic background and artistic interpretation of the temples.

There are locals hanging around who will offer their services for a fee, but it’s better to find an authorized guide if you can afford it. If not, it’s a worthwhile investment to pick up the book Ancient Angkor by Michael Freeman for about $7 from one of the hawkers.

Some of the more interesting ruins include the Bayon Temple and its many stone faces, in the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom, and the intricate pink sandstone carvings at Banteay Srei, 35 kilometers outside Siem Reap. I was mesmerized by Ta Prohm, where the ruins are seemingly being swallowed up by the massive roots of Banyan trees like enormous pythons.

Also among my favorites was the main temple, Angkor Wat (“city temple”), which was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers of the Angkor Wat temple represent the five peaks of Mt. Meru, the cosmological center of Hinduism.

The walls are decorated with galleries of bas-relief carvings, including several ornate details, carvings and friezes of images of battles taken from Hindu epic tales the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. There are also detailed depictions of their conception of heaven and hell.

The best time to visit Angkor Wat – and most of the other temples – is in the early morning or late afternoon. The heat is less intense, and you’ll avoid the big tour crowds. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is particularly enchanting if you can arrange it with your driver. But the ruins are worth visiting at any time of the day. The thunder and light showers that accompanied my visit to some of the temples created an appropriately mystical atmosphere.

Be prepared to be approached by persistent hawkers at nearly every temple. These are mostly young Cambodians who are trying to help support their families. If you don't want what they’re selling, just put your head down and keep on walking.

Most of their items seem to cost a dollar (“Mista, cold water, nice postcards, you wanna buy? Just one dolla” – you’ll hear that a lot) and they gladly welcome US dollars.

If you’re coming from Bangkok, it’s easiest just to fly into Siem Reap. Airfares are relatively cheap and the overland route can be a bit complicated. Coming by air, you can pick up your visa without hassle upon arrival at the airport.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Chunky yellowtail from Alijos Rocks

Imperial Beach Pier thresher shark
Angkor Wat - the main temple
Angkor Wat - the main temple

One hundred and fifty years ago, a French naturalist wandering the jungles of Cambodia stumbled upon an archaeological gold mine.

Hidden in the jungle were several temples built by a succession of rulers of the Khmer Empire between the 9th and 12th centuries. King Jayavarman II laid the foundations for the empire in the 9th century, and Angkor remained the capital of the Khmer Empire in Cambodia for the next 400 years.

The Angkor Archaeological Park is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and efforts are being made, after years of neglect and deterioration, to maintain and protect the site. The Angkor temples – the largest temple complex in the world – are collectively one of the architectural and cultural wonders of Southeast Asia.

The most famous temple at Angkor, the Angkor Wat temple, was constructed in the early 12th century and is by far the most well known. It's also the largest religious structure in the world.

I was captivated by the breadth and variety of the Angkor temples during my stay in nearby Siem Reap, Cambodia. Like Teotihuacan in Mexico, Angkor was known as the city of the gods, and the temples were constructed and decorated to represent their cosmological perspective. In the case of the Angkor temples, they were a dedication to the Hindu gods.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Also similar to Teotihuacan, there are temples to climb, but if you tire of this, just relax and reflect on what these buildings might have looked like a millennia ago. Try to imagine the ancient city’s bustle of activity.

The temples were actually surrounded by cities and villages in those days, but the homes of the people were built out of wood and have dissolved away over the centuries. The temples survived, as they were built from more durable materials such as brick and sandstone.

At its height, Angkor had a population of one million people – the largest pre-industrial city in the world. Reservoirs were built and an irrigation system brought water to the towns. The area was mysteriously abandoned, but some suspect climate change was a factor, which might have interfered with the water supply.

If you visit here, set aside at least three days to do the temples justice – you won't regret it. You can bike around the ruins, although some of the more interesting ones are distances apart. It’s easier to hire a tuk tuk driver to take you from one temple to the next. Expect to pay $40-50 for three days. For a higher fee, you can hire a guide to provide more detailed explanation of the historic background and artistic interpretation of the temples.

There are locals hanging around who will offer their services for a fee, but it’s better to find an authorized guide if you can afford it. If not, it’s a worthwhile investment to pick up the book Ancient Angkor by Michael Freeman for about $7 from one of the hawkers.

Some of the more interesting ruins include the Bayon Temple and its many stone faces, in the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom, and the intricate pink sandstone carvings at Banteay Srei, 35 kilometers outside Siem Reap. I was mesmerized by Ta Prohm, where the ruins are seemingly being swallowed up by the massive roots of Banyan trees like enormous pythons.

Also among my favorites was the main temple, Angkor Wat (“city temple”), which was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers of the Angkor Wat temple represent the five peaks of Mt. Meru, the cosmological center of Hinduism.

The walls are decorated with galleries of bas-relief carvings, including several ornate details, carvings and friezes of images of battles taken from Hindu epic tales the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. There are also detailed depictions of their conception of heaven and hell.

The best time to visit Angkor Wat – and most of the other temples – is in the early morning or late afternoon. The heat is less intense, and you’ll avoid the big tour crowds. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is particularly enchanting if you can arrange it with your driver. But the ruins are worth visiting at any time of the day. The thunder and light showers that accompanied my visit to some of the temples created an appropriately mystical atmosphere.

Be prepared to be approached by persistent hawkers at nearly every temple. These are mostly young Cambodians who are trying to help support their families. If you don't want what they’re selling, just put your head down and keep on walking.

Most of their items seem to cost a dollar (“Mista, cold water, nice postcards, you wanna buy? Just one dolla” – you’ll hear that a lot) and they gladly welcome US dollars.

If you’re coming from Bangkok, it’s easiest just to fly into Siem Reap. Airfares are relatively cheap and the overland route can be a bit complicated. Coming by air, you can pick up your visa without hassle upon arrival at the airport.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

La Clochette brings croissants—and cassoulet—to Mission Valley

Whatever's going on with this bakery business, Civita Park residents get a decent meal
Next Article

East Village Tree Lighting & Holiday Market, Holiday Gondola Cruise

Events November 30-December 4, 2024
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader