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Occasionally, when we “happened” to be in the same vicinity, I’d ask him if he was shaping boards. Of course, he answered that he wasn’t taking any orders. I’d only ask him that about once every six months or so. But I wanted him to know my face and to know I wanted him to shape me a board.

Over the years, whenever a Skippy was available at a reasonable price, I’d pick it up. I had a total of six boards, but three were old ones, collector’s items. One was from the late ’60s, one was from the ’70s, and one was from the early ’80s. To me, they are true works of art, and I’m keeping them forever.

A short while back, Skip happened to be at my neighbor’s house, just down the alley. I asked him if he would authenticate my old boards, and he said he would be interested in seeing them. He clearly remembered shaping them and told me the story on each. I’ve got some great pictures of that day.

As I previously mentioned, business was slow, so I was surfing a lot out there with Skip and the local 9:30 a.m. gang. Ten years in P.B. has been long enough to make friends with many of the regulars. While we’re in the lineup, a common point of conversation is Skip Frye surfboards. Most of the guys (everyone is in his 50s or older) have known Skip for 10 to 40 years, and many grew up right here in Pacific Beach. They all are riding on Skippys that have their name inscribed under the fiberglass.

By now, when Skip saw me, I could see he was starting to recognize me. We’d say “Hi” when paddling by. I’d clearly pull back from dropping in a wave if he was even in the vicinity. He might not know my name, but he knew who I was, a regular Tourmaline surfer and one who wanted a Skip Frye board with my name on it.

Then one day last April, I cornered him in the parking lot, before he could get away. Okay, I wanted to know, exactly how do you get on this magic waiting list? Do you want fistfuls of dollars, what? I’ll wait two years, but just please put me on the list. It’s the only thing I want for my birthday. Please put me on the list!

Well, he said, there isn’t really a list. He said he’d had a window in January — I should have asked him then. But he wasn’t taking orders now. That was a blow. If only I’d known in January that he had an open window!

The next day we were both out surfing at Old Man’s Reef, just Skip and I. We were talking about how you know when a good set is coming, what signs to look for. Things like watching the great surfers turn and paddle out real fast — they always know something. Or watching a sailboat in the distance: when it disappears and reappears, something big is coming. You can listen, and when you hear yelling out at P.B. Point, you should paddle out. That’s because usually the set hits the point first, then Old Man’s. I mentioned my favorite was to watch the pelicans fly surf along the waves. On a small day, they always pick the biggest wave to push them along in flight.

Skip looked at me quite directly, as though he were thinking about something else. He paddled over to me. He said three big surfboard blanks had just been delivered to his shop, now in an industrial complex. He knew I’d been jonesing for a board, and he was going to shape me one. He’d decided to make me a ten-foot Eagle.

Just like that.

Okay, I said, what are the mechanics of this? How does it work? (As we were way out in the ocean, I wanted to lock this up!) Do I give him money now, or what? He said he just needed my phone number, and then he’d call me when he’d finished shaping it.

Being afraid I’d screw it up, maybe crash into him on a wave, I took the next set in. I ran back up the hill to my home, got a business card, and wrote my name and phone number on it in big letters. Then I ran back down the hill to the Tourmaline parking lot, just as Skip was getting into his SUV. “Here, wait! Here’s my card!” Okay, he had it. He’d call me when it was shaped. That could be up to two years, remember.

This was on a Sunday. I’m not a religious man, but I did pray for rain, and it did rain on Monday. When it rains, the water gets polluted, so we stay out for a few days. On Monday afternoon, Skip called me. The board was shaped. I need to come on down to the shop and talk about colors and glassing. This was less than 24 hours since I’d talked with him in the parking lot. Since he had the blank in his shop, he’d decided to knock it out. When people ask me how long I was on “the list,” they don’t believe me when I say about one day.

Tuesday I was in his shop. His shaping shop is great. There are photos of famous surfers all over the walls and Skip Frye surfboards galore. And my new board was sitting on the shaping rack, looking very good. It’s a triple stringer, double concave bottom, his classic Eagle shape. And best of all, there on the top, written onto the middle stringer, was my name, “Russell.”

The Holy Grail has been found, and that’s pretty much the story. The glassing took another week. The board is tangerine orange, and it’s spectacularly beautiful to me, and apparently to other people too. I surf it every day. It is now, of course, my number-one board. It’s perfect for our Old Man’s Reef wave and is quite versatile. You can surf it on small days because it’s big enough to catch small waves. And it is fast. You can surf it in the big stuff too. I’ve seen Skip surfing 10-foot waves on his big 11-foot Eagle. It’s still summer right now, but that big surf is just around the corner, and boy, am I ever ready for it!

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PricklyPear Oct. 15, 2010 @ 8:16 a.m.

"One of the most important things about surfing is looking cool."

Uh, no, dude, the important thing is to live your life rightously and to become one with the water and the force that drives it. Then you are cool.

Somebody ought to paint the kook orange as a tribute to this poser.


Founder Oct. 17, 2010 @ 4:38 p.m.

  • Respect for the Sea - *

Reply #1 Some have all the fun

PricklyPear your comment is so cool Another word for poser is fool

I look forward to reading more from you What you're saying is refreshingly true

All those that make it off the Beach Know the Ocean has much to Teach

Money might equip the Wanna Be but it won't buy Respect for the Sea


Gail Powell Oct. 25, 2010 @ 7:02 a.m.

The thing about going to Tourmaline Surf Park, is if you are a half-way decent chick, it is not a good place to hang out. Tourmaline attracts a lot of OLD. HORNY SURFERS! I am NOT talking about Skip Frye-he is a gentleman and husband of Donna Frye. But guys with a paunch from too many brewskis and no hair thinking they are all that because they got a surfboard with them. NOT!

It's really pathetic to see these grizzled old goats making eyes with cute bikini girls. For someone female who just wants to lay out or maybe splash in the water, take yourself further down the road to the vast expanses of Mission Beach. The parking may be more problematic, but you will have an easier time of reading that book or not getting ogled by grandpas!


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