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Share Waves Without Judgment

Michael Janzen
Michael Janzen

Name: Michael Janzen

Surfing: Tourmaline

Lives: Mission Valley

Miss work for surfing? “No. Get up earlier and do both.”

A few months ago, surfers congregated at Tourmaline Surf Park in Pacific Beach. The mayor and two city council members gathered with the surfers. They regarded a new brick-and-granite installation, a memorial etched with a longboard surfer on a slow, steady wave. Beneath the engraved photo, the inscription reads, “Surf well, share aloha, share waves without judgment.”

Michael prepares his longboard for a ride and sets it in the bed of his pickup. Holding the rails of the truck, he kicks one foot back, grabs it, and stretches his leg. He repeats to stretch the other leg.

“Winter surfing’s better,” he says. “The waves are better; it’s just colder.” To keep from stiffening up in the frigid water, Michael advises, “Surf as much as possible; the more waves you catch, the warmer you stay….

“See that rock out there? That’s called Grimace.” He points to a crag protruding from beneath the white foam close to the beach. “There was a guy in a boat — a 30- or 40-footer — as close as Grimace, and he was trying to surf,” he says incredulously.

Michael says he’s sacrificed a lot for surfing. “I tore my meniscus and had knee surgery. Thirteen days after surgery, I stood up on my first wave. Same day I got my stitches out.”

The sky is cloudy but not threatening rain. Michael pulls his board from his truck and passes the memorial on his way to the water to share the gentle waves.

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Michael Janzen
Michael Janzen

Name: Michael Janzen

Surfing: Tourmaline

Lives: Mission Valley

Miss work for surfing? “No. Get up earlier and do both.”

A few months ago, surfers congregated at Tourmaline Surf Park in Pacific Beach. The mayor and two city council members gathered with the surfers. They regarded a new brick-and-granite installation, a memorial etched with a longboard surfer on a slow, steady wave. Beneath the engraved photo, the inscription reads, “Surf well, share aloha, share waves without judgment.”

Michael prepares his longboard for a ride and sets it in the bed of his pickup. Holding the rails of the truck, he kicks one foot back, grabs it, and stretches his leg. He repeats to stretch the other leg.

“Winter surfing’s better,” he says. “The waves are better; it’s just colder.” To keep from stiffening up in the frigid water, Michael advises, “Surf as much as possible; the more waves you catch, the warmer you stay….

“See that rock out there? That’s called Grimace.” He points to a crag protruding from beneath the white foam close to the beach. “There was a guy in a boat — a 30- or 40-footer — as close as Grimace, and he was trying to surf,” he says incredulously.

Michael says he’s sacrificed a lot for surfing. “I tore my meniscus and had knee surgery. Thirteen days after surgery, I stood up on my first wave. Same day I got my stitches out.”

The sky is cloudy but not threatening rain. Michael pulls his board from his truck and passes the memorial on his way to the water to share the gentle waves.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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