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Anza-Borrego's Smoke Tree Canyon twists its way into the barren flanks of the Santa Rosa Mountains.

Stark and barren, yet glorious in their nakedness, Anza-Borrego's skeletal mountain ranges conceal more than they reveal to casual passersby. If you want to know them better, you must leave the security of the automotive cocoon and start walking -- up a canyon or a wash or onto a hardscrabble ridge sweeping upward into the fierce blue sky.

The southern spurs of the Santa Rosa Mountains are as good a place as any to do this. Midday temperatures are rising into the 70s and 80s now -- warm but not too hot for an extended hike of six to ten miles, such as the one up along Smoke Tree Wash profiled here. Wear hiking boots to keep cactus spines at bay, and carry at least a pint of water for each hour of hiking. For parking by the roadside, you'll need an Anza-Borrego permit, $5 daily or $50 annual (for information, call 760-767-4205 or 760-767-5311).

To get to Smoke Tree Wash, drive east from Borrego Springs on Highway S-22 (Palm Canyon Drive and later Borrego-Salton Seaway) and park near mile 34.6, about 0.2 mile west of the signed entrance to Arroyo Salado Campground. On foot, simply follow the wide, sandy bed of Smoke Tree Wash north into the mountains looming above. Flat and easy to travel at first, the wash progressively narrows to what becomes, at 2.3 miles, a fissure overhung by menacing conglomerate cliffs (definitely not a good place to be during an earthquake). Up the canyon another 0.5 mile, look for a major side canyon on the right, heading northeast. Scramble up this side canyon a short distance to discover the Natural Rock Tanks -- large depressions in the bedrock created by the scouring action of flash floods. The tanks hold water for weeks or months after major storms, temporarily meeting the needs of the local bighorn sheep.

You can retrace your steps back to your car, completing a hike of nearly six miles. Or you can extend your exploration by traveling west a short distance on an obscure, disused miner's trail or north a mile or more through various upper tributaries of Smoke Tree Canyon. By climbing upward toward any ridgeline or peaklet in that area, you'll get a fine view of the corrugated Borrego Badlands to the south and the flat, spacious Borrego Valley to the southwest.

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Stark and barren, yet glorious in their nakedness, Anza-Borrego's skeletal mountain ranges conceal more than they reveal to casual passersby. If you want to know them better, you must leave the security of the automotive cocoon and start walking -- up a canyon or a wash or onto a hardscrabble ridge sweeping upward into the fierce blue sky.

The southern spurs of the Santa Rosa Mountains are as good a place as any to do this. Midday temperatures are rising into the 70s and 80s now -- warm but not too hot for an extended hike of six to ten miles, such as the one up along Smoke Tree Wash profiled here. Wear hiking boots to keep cactus spines at bay, and carry at least a pint of water for each hour of hiking. For parking by the roadside, you'll need an Anza-Borrego permit, $5 daily or $50 annual (for information, call 760-767-4205 or 760-767-5311).

To get to Smoke Tree Wash, drive east from Borrego Springs on Highway S-22 (Palm Canyon Drive and later Borrego-Salton Seaway) and park near mile 34.6, about 0.2 mile west of the signed entrance to Arroyo Salado Campground. On foot, simply follow the wide, sandy bed of Smoke Tree Wash north into the mountains looming above. Flat and easy to travel at first, the wash progressively narrows to what becomes, at 2.3 miles, a fissure overhung by menacing conglomerate cliffs (definitely not a good place to be during an earthquake). Up the canyon another 0.5 mile, look for a major side canyon on the right, heading northeast. Scramble up this side canyon a short distance to discover the Natural Rock Tanks -- large depressions in the bedrock created by the scouring action of flash floods. The tanks hold water for weeks or months after major storms, temporarily meeting the needs of the local bighorn sheep.

You can retrace your steps back to your car, completing a hike of nearly six miles. Or you can extend your exploration by traveling west a short distance on an obscure, disused miner's trail or north a mile or more through various upper tributaries of Smoke Tree Canyon. By climbing upward toward any ridgeline or peaklet in that area, you'll get a fine view of the corrugated Borrego Badlands to the south and the flat, spacious Borrego Valley to the southwest.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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