City of Gold 2.0 stars

City of Gold movie poster

The Gold of the title is Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer Prize–winning populist food critic for the L.A. Times. The city is Los Angeles, a place that is, in Gold’s words, “less a melting pot than a great, glittering mosaic” whose multitudinous urban centers boast an even more multitudinous array of restaurants, many of them cooking “not for tourists or critics...but for the community.” A self-described failed cellist and onetime classical music critic who eventually fell in love with punk and hip-hop, Gold had (has) the boundless curiosity and deep devotion required to properly assess these fabulous food trucks and strip-mall feast halls, plus the intelligence and literary grace to help the reader share in the joy of his adventures. Writer-director Laura Gabbert’s documentary is a pure and pleasant celebration of the man and his work, the latter of which achieves something approaching anthropological profundity by its humble, loving attention to culinary detail. 2015.

Matthew Lickona

This movie is not currently in theaters.


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