Feast! Food & Drink Reviews

Too much deliciosity

“You should come back any night during this Ramadan season. We have a special feast.”

I arrived too early. For Ramadan, that is. This was before last Sunday, when Ramadan began. I came because I was curious about what you eat if you are Muslim and fasting for the month. ...

The torta was truly drowned

The rare tortas ahogadas at Carnitas el Jerezano

The torta ahogada (“drowned sandwich”) is one of the many signature dishes brought to you by Jalisco, the state that is home to tequila and also my paternal family’s home. From what I know, there ...

Four kinds of pretzel

California Tap Room has snack food for North Park’s beer scene

There’s a new shop in North Park called California Tap Room, and it makes excellent use of water, yeast, and grain. But maybe not the way you’d expect. This tap room isn’t specifically in the ...

Et Voilà arrives in University Heights

And be sure to pronounce it correctly

Ever since we first saw the sign announcing a new French bistro named Et Voilà would soon be opening, David and I found ourselves forgoing the freeway to take the longer route down Adams Avenue ...

Subtle sweet smoke

Fireside by the Patio comes to Liberty Station

I lurked for months, surveying the perpetual construction and interminable delays that come with opening a new restaurant in San Diego. I watched in anticipation while huge wood burning grills were installed. I speculated endlessly ...

Hello, gorgeous

Fried chicken and wine at Marinade on Main

“Are we anticipating ketchup tonight?” This may be the most delightful phrase I’ve heard spoken by a server so far this year. The beauty of it is in the anticipation of the ketchup itself, rather ...

Goat-bloated from Café Royale

Most coffee roasters throw away the shell, but it has the best flavors!”

It’s the kids. They’re all over the table. And into the spaghetti and goat. All except Anas and Khalid. The two older boys are plowing into their own plate of chicken drumsticks. Their dad has ...

Feasting like an Italian queen

Pizza by bike, courtesy of Courier Collective

It’s said the first pizza delivery was made in the late 19th Century to Italy’s Queen Margherita — and Neapolitan pizza joints still make the basil-and-tomato pie named for her. Everybody assumes it was delivered ...

Hot Gouda and cold IPA

Venissimo Cheese at Bottlecraft

Since I live in the area and regularly “research” craft beer, I probably visit North Park’s Bottlecraft shop more than the average customer. While the Venissimo counter has been selling globally sourced cheeses out of ...

Trying Trust again

Does it fare better the second time?

[Note: Ian Pike gave Trust a try on March 31.] When I first saw the sign for Trust restaurant, I rolled my eyes a little. Was this yet another one of those hippie-dippy joints where ...

Culinary trends collide

Poke bowls and sushi burritos at Pokirrito

This may be the most of-the-moment restaurant opening San Diego will see in 2016. Convoy Street’s new Pokirrito manages to capitalize on two current fast-casual trends at once, combining poke salad bowls and sushi burritos. ...

Great Korean in a Tijuana mall

It’s called Chopstix Comida Coreana

In Tijuana, if you crave sushi you are limited to two things: bad but cheap sushi or decent sushi in a fancy sit-down restaurant. I knew that the Friki Plaza, the nerdy mall where Dorian’s ...

Raise an unlimited joe to long-dead Yankee Jim

Real seducer

He thought they were joking. Even when they had him standing on a horse-drawn dray with a rope around his neck. All he’d done was go for a joyride in a rowboat. He called it ...

Assertive licorice

Tasting notes on Négociant Winery’s 2012 Sangiovese

In 2012, Utah’s happy hour ban went into effect, adding that state to a short list of others that consider special prices on alcoholic drinks a source of great social harm. Later that year, Hurricane ...

Normal Heights is not Memphis

Burnside begs to be described as “unpretentious”

A little while back, I caught wind that hipster sandwich shop Burnside had rebooted itself with a barbecue theme. As self-appointed local barbecue doyen, a position I realize is somewhat oxymoronic, I knew I had ...

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