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How to survive Yosemite in July

Get off the tourist track and head for the High Country.

With limited free time and a bucket list growing by the day, a return trip to Yosemite National Park had been on the cards for a while, but sadly the only weekend we could spare ...

Providencia, Colombia

Tales of pirates and Puritans in this Caribbean island hideaway.

Below us, the island came into view, encircled by a brittle ring of coral reefs made distinguishable by whitewater ripping at the edges. A turquoise iris skirted the white sandy edges of the Caribbean island ...

Go Gallic in Trier

Germany's oldest city is chock-full of ancient history.

Germany’s most ancient city is Trier, its name derived from the Roman name Augusta Trevororum under Caesar Augustus. It was known as the “Second Rome” before Constantinople. While the Romans had been in neighboring Gaul ...

Olympos, Turkey – working for it

Mediterranean paradise earned.

Getting to Olympos, Turkey, our final destination, was turning out to be a real doozy. This sleeping spread-eagle business on the cold green floor of the Kharkiv, Ukraine, airport, catching a 3 a.m. flight with ...

Forts of the Deep South

Conquistadors to the Civil War, Florida to Mississippi.

Empires rise and they fall, leaving behind the ruins of their fortresses. Until armored warships rendered masonry forts and their black powder cannons obsolete, warring European empires set on colonizing the rest of the world ...

Andasibe, Madagascar

Singing lemurs, jungle treks and reflections on travel.

Tina, my male Malagasy guide, planned a trip to the Andasibe National Park and a small lemur reserve. On the walk there we discussed different cultural aspects of Madagascar and his history. Arriving in the ...

Wagner's Lucerne

This idyllic Swiss city celebrates the composer's 200th birthday.

May 22 is the bicentennial of the birth of German composer Richard Wagner. Although born 1813 in Leipzig, the operatic genius has a strong connection to Switzerland. Wagner – then Royal Saxon Court Conductor – ...

Sofia, Bulgaria: rakia with Boris

Straight talk and homemade booze in the Eastern Bloc.

I hung out the other day with a 50-something-year-old Bulgarian bus driver named Boris. He'd taken one of my classes on a field trip, and I’d offered to buy him and the tour guide a ...

(Speed)hiking Alaska's Matanuska Glacier

I had less than eight hours before my flight and I wanted to hike Matanuska Glacier, a two-and-a-half-hour drive each way from the Anchorage airport. It had been a fun weekend visiting friends, seeing the ...

Behind the redwood curtain: Humboldt County

A world – and 10-12 hours – away from SoCal freeways.

Northern California doesn't begin with San Francisco, at least not to Humboldt County residents. It's not really a particular city that marks the split between north and south, but a vast stretch of forest – ...

Real Russian shots: Moscow

Spirited storytelling and vodka lessons from a master bartender.

The bar at Moscow’s Marriott Grand Hotel on Tverskaya Street – a hop, goose step and jump up the road from the Kremlin – is the place to learn the fine art of drinking vodka, ...

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