Bolivian woman with the traditional aguayo.

Bolivian woman with the traditional aguayo.

Meat heaven: la parilla in Montevideo.

Meat heaven: la parilla in Montevideo.

Riverboat in Belem, at the mouth of the Amazon. December 2011.

Riverboat in Belem, at the mouth of the Amazon. December 2011.

Passengers line the rail to get a first glimpse of Cape Horn.

Passengers line the rail to get a first glimpse of Cape Horn.

South America

Macchu Picchu, in style

The author's fifth trip reveals a different side of Peru.

It’s a well-worn theme, that of the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu. But bear with me: this time – my fifth – we did it in luxury, an experience so alien to me as a ...

Faith at Lima's witches market

Sometimes the power of belief is the most important part of a medical treatment. At the witches' market in Lima, Peru, the curanderos gather in early morning, setting up their stalls and hanging their banners. ...

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

For those who make the trek, these massive salt flats are a sight to behold.

The landlocked (and usually overlooked) country of Bolivia in South America is home to the largest salt flats in the world, visible by astronauts in space. The Salar de Uyuni is 25 times larger than ...

Chillin' in El Chaltén

Explore this gorgeous, laid-back gateway to Patagonia.

In South America, religious icons are as common as sunrise, and shrines are ubiquitous. But a shrine studded with cigarette packs, bottles of beer and decks of playing cards? Welcome to El Chaltén, Argentina – ...

Caño Cristales, Colombia

The region's blood-red river, and other anomalies.

The army sharpshooter looks us up and down, his anti-guerrilla livery emblazoned on a tightly wound bandana. He establishes quickly that we represent no threat, shows us his rifle and smiles, revealing braces. Incongruous, I ...

Perception vs. reality: Peru's Amazon

Discovering the rainforest's magic.

My wife and I were deep in the Amazonian rainforest of northern Peru, traveling on a small river boat. Our local guide, Uciel, was born and raised in this tropical jungle, and his passion for ...

Los Llanos: wild Colombia

Welcome to Colombia's cowboy country.

If you look at a map of Colombia in South America, you see a huge region in eastern Colombia comprising sprawling, seasonally flooded plains that have been ignored by tourists due to their location (former ...

Providencia, Colombia

Tales of pirates and Puritans in this Caribbean island hideaway.

Below us, the island came into view, encircled by a brittle ring of coral reefs made distinguishable by whitewater ripping at the edges. A turquoise iris skirted the white sandy edges of the Caribbean island ...

Eco-luxury in the Amazon: Ariau Towers

This treetop hotel makes for a must-see.

I’ve been traveling around the world for years and always attempt to practice socially responsible tourism. I had read about the Ariau Amazon Towers for several years and decided to make it my eco-lodge destination ...

The World's Edge: Cape Horn

This is a place of extremes. The name alone brings to mind images of explorers and traders in tall sailing ships working their way against horrendous seas and hurricane-strength winds. Set on its own small ...

I Am Rambo in Chiribiquete, Colombia

Upriver expedition in the remote Amazon rainforest.

Strangely, the noxious swarm of mosquitos intent on doing me harm had ebbed, and the growl of the Chiribiquete waterfall (below) no longer sounded, as if its familiarity to my ears after a few hours ...

The Magic of Salento

Adventure in Colombian coffee country.

There was more than just a luscious countryside of diversified vegetation and smooth, rolling hills, where a clean river ran steady and uninhibited over gardens of round stones. More than just untouched wax palm trees, ...

Must-see Colombia

Get off the tourist track and see undiscovered Caribbean coast.

Most of the Caribbean has long since lost its authenticity, being overrun by cruise ships, high-pressure touts and one too many Jimmy Buffet wannabes. But there are still a few places where you can find ...

Surinam: Outpost for the Scottish Diaspora

The gravedigger noticed me looking a bit lost among the weeds and snakes of the old cemetery. He shouted to me. "Bakra, over there." I looked up. "More further," he said, wiping the sweat away ...

Discover Bolivia

Bolivia is unique. It is the only country in the “New World” where the indigenous still predominate. Imagine if 65% of our population was still Native American (versus the less than one percent we have ...

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