Napizza’s truffle and porcini mushroom pizza. Something about giving the dough 72 hours to rise does seem to give it more flavor.
  • Napizza’s truffle and porcini mushroom pizza. Something about giving the dough 72 hours to rise does seem to give it more flavor.
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Here’s a confession: I love good food, but if it’s a bargain, I love it better. I’d rather have so-so food that’s wallet-lite than fantastic fare that causes gnashing of teeth for weeks after. Heck, half the time you never even notice what’s going down ye olde gullet anyway.

What kind of food? My partner, the lovely Carla, says bears, possums, and I are soul brothers. We’ll eat anything. I’ve never become an expert in one thing — say, Lao food or sushi or Oaxacan grasshopper dishes or gourmet pizzas. But I seem to like most stuff, aside from boiled cabbage or brussels sprouts.

But there are some places that you kinda take to heart. They’re more than the dish or the deal. Something clicks about the people and the place, and you want to come back and be a part of it. These are just some.

Napizza Al Taglio

1702 India Street, Little Italy

Napizza
My favorite new pizza joint. Something about giving the dough 72 hours to rise does seem to give it more flavor. But the main thing about Napizza is attitude. They really have tried to go green, buy local, and recycle like crazy. And they’ve just created a good vibe. A glass of wine, a square of BAPO (bacon and potato) pizza — say, ten bucks altogether — a seat outside right in the heart of Little Italy at sunset is hard to beat. ’Specially as other places nearby offer the same view for twice the price.

Baja Oyster & Sushi Bar

1912 Coronado Avenue #105, Nestor

Baja Oyster & Sushi Bar
Favorite seafood hangout. This place is on the edge of the Tijuana Sloughs, but swing through the door and — bam! — you’re in the middle of a scene. Each time I’ve been here it’s crowded and feels like party time. You can sit up close to the band of crazy cooks clanging pans, among corrugated iron and palm-frond palapas, and order big (like the shrimp sampler for nearly 50 bucks) or small. My favorite: smoked marlin taco for $3. And it’s pretty filling. And, down here, people talk to you! Best time: sunset, Thursday onward.

Mezzah

169 East Main Street, El Cajon

Mezzah
Right in the center of town, in the old wooden “Historic El Cajon Hall 1894,” as the plaque says. “Mezzah” means “tapa.” “We are Iraqi Christians, but our tapas are mainly Lebanese,” the owner Ammar told me. “The Lebanese love to snack on different tapas, to have a drink, and socialize.” Classy feeling here. Pretty big tapas, too. Around $7 for dishes such as grilled quail, sherhaat (steak medallions), and, my fave, fetoosh, a Lebanese salad that’s huge. Nice outside patio, right beside the park and the boulevard.

Cafe Di Roma

633 9th Street, Imperial Beach

Café di Roma
My favorite Italian. This is a new, hard-to-find place started by an Italian family with deep South Bay roots. This place is full of life — Italian style: talk, sisters, husbands, cooks, wives rolling gnocchi pastries out on the table, ’50s Italian music, like “Volare,” as they create it all from scratch right here. Yes, it’s totally standard stuff, but in this atmosphere, what else? And they’re trying hard to cook healthy. They make their own sausages from turkey, meatballs that (they swear!) are “91 percent lean.” My fave: the sizzling eggplant dish ($10).

Urban India

1041 Fourth Avenue, Downtown San Diego

Urban India
It was the $2 Stone IPA happy-hour draft pints that got me coming here. That’s unbeatable. The place is a bit of a barn — orangey, woody, bricky, though they have filled it with Indian art, Buddha heads, and big-screen TVs showing sports. You know it’s Indian because half the screens are showing cricket. The young Sikhs running it are part of the “new India” — urban, cool, on the make. Good standard Indian fare. Best happy-hour deal: the chicken tikka, sizzlin’ and crackling on a black iron platter for around six bucks.

Sótano Suizo

9415 Avenida Paseo de Los Héroes, Zona Rio, Baja

Sótano Suizo (“Swiss Cellar”)
My favorite hot dog. It’s an eight-inch craggy-crusted baguette loaded with a giant, peppery Hungarian wiener under a nest of crispy candied onions, tomato chunks, a crooked line of yellow mustard with red balls dotted along it so it looks like a coral snake, plus unmelted Swiss cheese licking over the edges. The Swiss guy who created this dawg is René Bösiger. Now he’s created his own beer, too. Take friends, take time. It’s worth the trip.

God Save the Cuisine, British Gastro-Truck
619-889-6119 | godsavethecuisine.com

My fave food truck. The first thing you’ve gotta love about these Brits is that they supply picnic blankets so you can chow down beside the truck. Then, the food’s interesting: say, smoked salmon on flatbread with sour cream, lemon, and potato salad; or beer-battered fish and chips; or spiced ground lamb on salad leaves. And dessert? How about the Queen Mother’s favorite: Eton Mess, a strawberry compote with crumbled meringue and fresh mint. Someone should give these Brit brothers, Dave and Kevin Keylock, a knighthood.

Potato Shack Café

120 W. I Street, Encinitas

The Potato Shack
It’s not that the food leaps out at you, it’s that they give you so much of it. And when you’ve come out of the water, surfing, whatever, that’s what you want: a giant portion of something real unhealthy, like, say, baked spuds. Here in this little low place under giant ficus trees you see local firemen, church groups, gals with their lil ol’ moms, surfers. Tables are slices of tree trunks. My favorite breakfast is chicken-fried steak, steamed eggs, squaw-bread toast, and fries. Actually, what they’re famous for is their “manhole cover–size pancakes.” Too much, even for me.

Tacos Kokopelli

Corner of Calle Melchor Ocampo and Boulevard Agua Caliente, Zona Centro, Baja

Tacos Kokopelli
My favorite street-taco stand. It’s just a tent-covered stand. But Guillermo “Oso” Campo, the chef here, till recently had a post at a three-Michelin-star restaurant, Oud Sluis in Holland. Came home, thought, Hey, why not just try something new on the streets of my hometown? Result: Here he is cooking by an open-fire mesquite grill. Makes tacos like… ceviche of sole blackened on the grill, then slapped on a messy red layer of toasted chilies, peanuts, squash, and roasted habaneros in olive oil. Out of this world? Grab his food before some five-star restaurant grabs him.

More Feast 2012: Eats for Freelancers | Spirit of Family Dinnertime | Accessible Gourmet | Lunchtime in Kearny Mesa | Fried Chicken | Try At Least Once

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Comments

dlwatib Oct. 27, 2012 @ 5:02 p.m.

You're right that Cafe Di Roma is a little off the beaten track and you might miss it. I'll have to try it out. It's a bit lacking in atmosphere but maybe the food makes up for it.

I have tried Marco's around the corner and down a few blocks on Palm Ave when I was hungry for Italian. I think I saw a sign saying it was founded in the 1960s. This is quite believable since, apart from the carpet, it looks like the same exact dark sleazy bar decor they opened with, and the same Sinatra and Martin music. The food there is good, but the 1960s was not the best era in Italian-American restaurants.

Other noteworthy IB establishments are the French guy's pretzel place next to the pier called Pretzels and Much More, the Tin Fish on the pier, Meijo's Japanese restaurant, the West Coast Cafe, and the Beach Club Grille.

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Ed Bedford Nov. 16, 2012 @ 5:17 p.m.

Belated reply, Diwatib. Yes, you're right about a lot of that Sinatra era Italian food. But sometimes that kind of atmosphere, like in Moonstruck, is kinda comforting. Thanks for the heads-up on these other IB places. Have done Meijo. Love it. The others: my mission is clear!

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