Don Bauder 9:40 p.m., May 21
Oani shoring up The Shores
Former Roy's La Jolla chef fills clogs at The Shores
Yesterday, I shared the news that gastronome Amy DiBiase is heading back to Paradise Point Resort & Spa, where she cooked between 2006 and 2008. In doing so, she left a vacancy at her last post, The Shores Restaurant (8110 Camino Del Oro, La Jolla) at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club. Last night, I contacted one of my kitchen sources at LJBTC to find out who would be stepping into DiBiase’s chef de cuisine clogs in The Jewel. Their response: Percy Oani.
That name may sound familiar to those living in La Jolla or the UTC area. Oani’s last job was as executive chef at Roy’s La Jolla, a link in a chain of high-end restaurants offering upscale Hawaiian fusion cuisine. A check of the The Shores’ current menu turns up much of the combination French and Italian fare cooked up by DiBiase in collaboration with LJBTC executive chef Bernard Guillas.
Guillas oversees menu development for all of the LJBTC restaurants. He’s most known for his work at the Marine Room, but has always had major influence at this lower-profile venue. Before DiBiase came aboard, The Shores was something of a Marine Room-lite in my opinion. Many of the protein crusts, reduction sauces, and starches were akin to or identical to those used at Guillas’ primary restaurant.
It will be interesting to see if and how the offerings at The Shores change under Oani. Surely, Guillas will have his say and do what he does to keep The Shores consistent to some degree with the food being put out throughout LJBTC (which includes sister property, La Jolla Shores Hotel, which houses The Shores Restaurant). A bit of Polynesian influence could freshen up the Marine Room’s little sister property while fitting in with Guillas’ globally inspired dishes.