Walter Mencken 11 a.m., Nov. 27
So Much for Blanca Part Two
Blanca, a fine-dining restaurant, settled down in Solana Beach several years ago but never really settled in. The place was sleek, the kind of white-leather wonder where nobody ever really got to feel comfortable, despite the owners' intentions that diners do just that.
But customers weren't the only thing Blanca's ownership had trouble keeping around. Chefs came and went with the greatest frequency of just about any dining establishment in San Diego over the past three years. First there was Wade Hageman, who produced gorgeous and delicious food before booking it up Highway 101 to Encinitas where he continues to earn raves for his farm-to-table pie hideaway, Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria.
Next up was a guy I won't even bother mentioning by name. I'm still steaming from his parting words -- "all San Diegans want are fish tacos" -- and the insinuation that our county isn't capable of understanding gourmet cuisine at its most modern and heightened state (which he wasn't producing anyway, so it's sort of a moot point).
Then came Gavin Schmidt, a forager who won over the local media as well as Blanca regulars. Still, Blanca failed to be a draw.
So, the owners closed their doors and began working with Schmidt on plans to relocate to a more centralized part of town where they could attract a more loyal and foodcentric clientele. At least that was the plan. I just received official word that Blanca part two is history. The owners are up and moving to Texas to lick their wounds and start a new concept. Schmidt will be staying here, which is probably a good thing. It's always sad to lose a good chef, and even in his brief time at Blanca's helm he proved he's got the chops.
Fortunately, North Park's El Take It Easy is providing him the opportunity to show what he can do via occasional pop-up dinners. The next will take place next Wednesday, October 26 and feature a six-course menu built around seafood in celebration of Seafood Month. The menu isn't set in stone but will likely include most of the following: yellowtail tartare, uni, lobster, abalone, shrimp and scallop boudin sausage, sculpin, and octopus. For reservations and details, call 858-291-1859.
Pictured: Chef Schmidt
More like this:
- In Transit Blanca Chef Popping Up at Several Rest Stops — Aug. 30, 2011
- Best Bites of the Year — Dec. 29, 2010
- new chef at Blanca - hot hot hot! — July 4, 2010
- One Hand Clapping — Jan. 11, 2007
- Thoroughly Modern Blanca — Sept. 7, 2006