Matthew Lickona 11:49 p.m., Dec. 10
As seasonal edibles harvested from SoCal farms becomes more and more the staple in San Diego, perusing menus gets more and more exciting. Unlike the old days in America’s Finest, many of our restaurants’ food bills change with a good deal of regularity and usually with the seasons. We’re smack dab in the middle of summer, but Christian Graves, a chef who’s been moving and shaking with the seasons for some time, just switched up his offerings at Downtown’s Jsix (http://jsixrestaurant.com).
Situated on the southwest corner of the Hotel Solamar, Jsix is all about classically prepared food centered around what can be harvested from nearby fields. Expect well-cooked proteins that are dolled up -- not by heavy sauces, foams, or big-ticket items such as caviar or edible gold leaf but by sweet gold beets, heirloom tomatoes (depending on the season), and sweet and earthy herbs and house-made accoutrements such as vinegar and pickled vegetables.
This is Graves’ sumptuousness-through-simplicity culinary model, and it’s alive in the new menu, which just went live and is included in its entirety below (with photos of select dishes available at http://on.fb.me/nP3EWh). Jsix is located at 616 J Street.