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Mary Beth Abate

Mary Beth Abate is a Reader contributor. See staff page for published articles.

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— January 13, 2012 10:37 a.m.

Uninspired in Clairemont: Kitchen 4140

Yes, I have been to culinary school, and I've worked in the food service industry. But whether I have or have not is irrelevant. You don't need to go to culinary school to be a journalist and restaurant critic. When an egg is boiled in plastic wrap, the ends of the wrap are gathered up and tied, like a beggar's purse. The result looks a little more like a poached egg should in shape. The eggs I was served have a pointed end, typical of being put in a plastic bag and have taken the shape of the corners of the bag. Either way, it's boiling in plastic. Cooking in plastic is not poaching, which requires direct contact between the food and the acidulated liquid, without any barrier. The exception would be au torchon, where the foie gras may be wrapped in cheesecloth or a clean kitchen towel. The foie gras still has direct contact with liquid, though, which soaks through the cloth. They're not sous vide, either, as they were unevenly cooked, one end being overcooked and the other raw. Eggs are cooked sous vide in the shell after being vacuum sealed in plastic, making them also more typical of a boiled egg (though they would probably be cooked at 140 F or so, not 212 F. Poaching an egg is a simple bit of protein chemistry and just takes practice and attention, whether you are poaching one egg or two hundred. The bottom line is, when a restaurant charges nearly $50 (inc. tax and tip) for breakfast for two, the food should to be stellar. If it's not, people may not outright complain to the management, they may even say it's great if management asks, but they won't come back.
— January 13, 2012 9:44 a.m.

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