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Stories by Ed Bedford

Judith Moore's tough-fisted regime at the Reader

"Moore wants more," I would joke to myself.Busy Fingers Are Happy Fingers — Joe DeeganI couldn't find an angle to get my story started, I told her. "Forget all about angles," she then said with …

May 12, 2026
Meaty feast meet-up

“Piquenique?” says Larry. “Let me check with Janis. She may be in Venezuela.”He’s exaggerating. But only a little. His wife Janis has this incredible life chasing birds around the world. Where she is depends on …

October 3, 2025
Dollface points the way

Five-dollar taco deals? At Comic-Con? Really? I’m still thinking of the second day, the Saturday. We were among thousands of cosplay originals. The two of us felt like visitors from Planet Boring. Around us, everyone …

August 14, 2025
Tin Fork: Sticky rice and other delights

“Lao food! Lao food!” calls a woman's voice through the loudspeaker. The voice gives a couple of whoops. “Ahan Lao! I’m making Laab Kung Lao. Homage to the OG! Ahan Lao!”In this case, the OG …

July 17, 2025
Ed Bedford chews the Kraken at Kokopelli

The flute-player is around here somewhere. Has to be. I’m on Río Colorado in the Colonia Marrón part of TJ, at the bougainvillea-and-canvas-shaded end of the calle. And ah. A sign. “In the kitchen, as in …

June 12, 2025
Ed Bedford goes grocery shopping, finds it's a SNAP

At some point, I let it slip that I’d had oatmeal for lunch. My friend Jacqui flicked a look at me that asked, “Are you really in that much trouble?”Fact is, yes: things have been, …

May 29, 2025
Tin Fork: The return to Ichiban

Satomi and Yoko half-recognize me. I know them from like five years ago, when I just had to stop at their place, because — like now, perfect timing! — this is their generous happy hour. …

May 9, 2025
Afternoon at the Night & Day

First time I came in here, the Night and Day was a true 24-hour greasy spoon. Front door stayed open for half a century, day and night. It’s where you came after you realized you’d …

April 3, 2025
Ed Bedford visits the Tea Pavilion

Video:TIN FORK: A history of Teriyaki at the Japanese Friendship Garden“I’m sick of my nuts and twigs,” says Diane. She’s talking about the macrobiotic meals she’s been serving up (she won’t eat my attempts at …

February 13, 2025
Descanso Junction: Unchained lunch

Video:TIN FORK: Descanso Junction: Unchained lunch near Old Highway 80“Are we there yet?”That’s me. Even though Annella and Adrian are doing the driving, this twisty, hilly trip seems like it’ll never end. For starters, we’ve …

January 30, 2025
Dumpling Inn discourse

Video:TIN FORK: Dumpling Inn discourse“I’m not into pork,” says Diane.Uh, this as we walk through the doors of The Dumpling Inn, specialists in Xiao Long Bao, steamed pawk dumplings.“You can’t kill pigs,” my true love …

January 9, 2025
Tacos and elotes greet Ed Bedford after border walk

Video:TIN FORK: Pidalo’s elotes greet Ed Bedford after border walk“Asada! Adobada! Chorizo! Buche! Suadero! Campechano!” Pedro’s blasting out from this very first cluster of food carts south of the border. I have just had a …

December 26, 2024
94th Aero Squadron – French farmhouse still works

Video:TIN FORK: 94th Aero Squadron – French farmhouse still worksIt was one of those gifts a cash-strapped cuss like myself always dreams of.I heard about it first in 2013: this crazy eat-drinks place with World …

December 11, 2024
Barrio Logan’s very good Dogg

Video:TIN FORK: A very HOT dogBarrio Logan, I’m thinking, is bound to be a cinch for Yoli, the Mexican lemon-lime soft drink that started in Guerrero a century ago, and tastes like Sprite, only a …

November 29, 2024
Pie pleasure at Queenstown Public House

Video:TIN FORK: The pie of the beholder at Queenstown PiesJust back from New Zealand, where I went crazy…on meat pies. (They’re called “pot pies” back here.) If there’s a national dish Down Under, pies are …

November 14, 2024
Commi serves food for the people

Video:TIN FORK: WINSTON GABON, manager of Commi Restaurant in Christchurch, New ZealandIt’s on the walls! That glorious revolutionary time when young idealists marched with flags sweeping over their heads, hope and defiance in their eyes, …

August 1, 2024
Peter King lives a cell-free life

Video:GOLDEN DREAMS: Peter King lives a cell-free lifeNew Zealand is nothing if not tech-forward. Early this year, it recorded 6.84 million cellular mobile connections. That’s 130.3 percent of the population (5.124 million people.) But don’t …

July 19, 2024
A taste of America on the other side of the world

Video:TIN FORK: A taste of America on the other side of the worldSomehow, not being in America, this place feels all the more American. I’m in a diner,, and it feels like a kind of …

July 18, 2024
Ed Bedford snacks on snails

Video:Ed Bedford snacks on snailsThis is weird. I’m sitting here looking out over the Port from pretty much exactly where some photographer, back on March 24, 1882, pulled the cap off his giant camera lens …

July 4, 2024
Dobson’s puts its soup in a song

Video:TIN FORK: Dobson's Bar and RestaurantIt’s not often that a restaurant commissions a song in honor of itself. But Marcos Luciano, the Mexico City-born restaurateur who took over Dobson’s Bar and Restaurant from the man …

Ed Bedford gorges on Gaetano’s before taking off

Five minutes to midnight. The plane starts backing out. At last. It’s gonna be a 16-hour haul, and I’m already hongry. Just spent three hours at Wolfgang Puck’s WPizza bar in LAX, waiting for this …

June 6, 2024
Kiko’s Place gets a new space

Video:TIN FORK: Kiko’s Place gets a new space downtown on C Street. The OG fish taco is still just $3.50.My true love Diane and I have been to Kiko’s Place — the food truck near …

Chocolate chili champ at the Thousand Trails Pio Pico Campground south of Jamul

“You ever seen a prettier car show than this?” asks Tim. He’s into cars. We’re walking among antique and vintage classics parked in this brilliant green meadow, under trees, with the smell of wildflowers mixing …

Ten women founded UCSD’s Cafe Minerva

Woah. Lotta high-powered people here. Clinking glasses, laughing over-loudly at jokes, standing with a canapé in one hand and a glass of bubbly in the other, leaning forward to catch inside talk about other people. …

April 18, 2024
Bravo Cafe & Yogurt: small space, big menu

“I tell you,” insists my friend Tim. “He gives the most. He’s the host with the most! He’s worth the trip!”“Uh, to Spring Valley?” I ask.“Hey! I live in Spring Valley. What’s wrong with Spring …

April 4, 2024
Barrio Food Hub's brave new world

‘Over here!” yells Tim. We’ve split up, trying to find this one eatery. I’m on 26th street, with the naval supply ships at one end shoving their prows over the piers like nosey dogs. Tim’s …

March 29, 2024
Taco Taco Poway still has 99-cent fish tacos

“This is well-known among Powegians,” says my buddy Larry.“‘Powegians’?”“The good burghers of Poway, probably the least-known of all our cities.”“But I hear it’s a city for somewhat fat cats,” I say. “Not somewhere you’d find …

March 14, 2024
South Park’s Big Kitchen offers food, love, and politics

Video:TIN FORK: South Park’s Big Kitchen offers food, love, and politicsJudy the Beauty on Duty throws her head back and laughs. “Tres bien, tres bien!” She says it with a deliberate accent, partly to annoy …

February 29, 2024
The livery pleasures of Pinoy Stew

“Stew,” says Kevin.“Pupusa,” I say.“Stew,” says Diane.“Pupusa,” I say. “Come on! There’s a Salvadoreno joint just around the corner.”“Pinoy stew!” says Kevin. “Used to have it off-base at Subic Bay. PI.”“PI?” says Diane.“Philippine Islands,” I …

February 15, 2024
Sultan Baklava’s Turkish hospitality

Video:TIN FORK: Sultan Baklava's Turkish hospitalityIt’s morning in El Cajon. But it could almost be morning in Istanbul. I’m here sipping Turkish coffee among Turkish folk in a gold-trimmed maroon room in the oldest building …

January 25, 2024
Hong Kong Restaurant: the great walnut shrimp of China

Video:TIN FORK: the uber-cool Chocolat, around the corner at Fifth and University“Please, darling. Not Chinese. Not tonight.”We’re outside the Hong Kong restaurant. The place looks fine to me — but not to the beautiful Diane. …

January 11, 2024
Family House of Pancakes’ Persian quiche — the enduring omelet

Video:TIN FORK: Family House of Pancakes’ Persian quiche — the enduring omeletMan, it seems everybody’s going to Lemon Grove these days (See Ian Anderson’s recent <a href="http://www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2023/dec/12/with-each-location-el-pollo-grill-has-gotten-more-colorful/">El Pollo Grill review</a> from 12/21/23). Me, I’m here …

January 4, 2024
Cafe Encuentra: Ancient sandwiches

I'm looking at this dinner table, all laid out and ready for ten guests: there’s even food in the dishes. Tamales, bread, pozole, buñuelos, other things wrapped in corn husks, olives, nopales, frijoles, sweet corn, …

December 14, 2023
Chuchee’s Frutorteria: Peanuts for peanuts

’Tis already the season. And already, I’ve been eating way too much gunge! Need less fat, more fruit, veggies, nuts, twigs. A fresh taste in my mouth.And yet I’ve got that hungry hollow feeling as …

November 30, 2023
UCSD Food Co-op: a great force for bringing people together

“Sorry, we have none left.”Whu? It’s 1 pm and they’ve run out of lunch already? Maybe they’re out to lunch. And here I had been so looking forward to this Indian curry — for just …

November 16, 2023
The everlasting battle to save Solana Beach bluffs

Solana BeachWhat makes Solana Beach interesting for me is not only the Hispanic history, which infuses the area with words of Spanish origin: Rios, Cedros, and Granados (rivers, cedars, and pomegranate trees), but that the …

November 6, 2023
Julian in the fall: apple pie a la mode

Sometimes, you’re thankful to just sit down somewhere. You don’t care about the food, the cushions, or the view. This is one of those moments. I collapse onto this bench seat among the ancient native …

November 2, 2023
Alleys are San Diego's last frontier

A tour of San Diego alleysJack Whalen hands me a beer. “I’m king of this alley,” Whalen says, then points west. “Down there, the king of that next alley is Tom Sweet. He’s 97.” Whalen …

October 16, 2023
Ye Olde Plank Inn: getting dressed up with a “Scotty Too Hotty”

“Arrogant Bastard!” I say.“Arrogant what?” asks Diane, my newly-minted sweetheart.I look at the bubbling brown elixir that is my AB, then up at Diane’s sparkling chocolate eyes flecked with green, and sigh. “Most beautiful lamps …

October 12, 2023
There are two Sorrento Valleys

Sorrento Valley lacks stickiness It’s among the safest of neighborhoods. A glance at crime statistics shows negligible amounts in Sorrento Valley proper (most months: no murder, no rape, 20 nonresidential burglaries). The place is either …

Pupuseria Silvia: Swell swollen tortillas

Aahh! San Diego pupusas. And I mean San Diego, the Central American beach twenty-six klicks south of San Salvador, capital of El Salvador. ’Twas there I first ate that country’s national food, the pupusa, introduced …

Leftover revival at Los Chilaquiles

The Aztec drums echo through the barrio. Even at this distance, you can hear the dancers’ ankle rattles shaking with each foot stomp. Chicano Park on this Monday night tells you better than anywhere else …

February 23, 2023
Trivial burns at Shakespeare Pub

“We’re eating British tonight, alright?” says Annie in that voice of hers. It’s been a hard day. We’ve been working together. Both beat. She’s my friend. You’d think she was my wife. But hey, she’s …

February 9, 2023
Peutz Valley – the fire did not kill our spirit

Alpine's Secret Valley Here we could raise animals and grow a garden, learn the old arts of canning, butchering, milking, and cheese-making. The '70s provided this back-earth movement, and our few neighbors, like my family, …

January 30, 2023
Fortunate Son: “Working class American-Chinese food”

“Och, dreich. Ye coulda picked a better night, sailor,” says Annie. “It’s chucking it down.” Annie’s my Scottish friend. She’s right about the rain. Says it takes her back to “Caledonia.” That’s the old name …

January 26, 2023
Dancing Yak: Coming back for the yak

I came for yak, the classic mountain meat from the Himalayas. I ended up with tikka masala, the classic Indian dish from, uh, Scotland? But I’m getting ahead of myself. It was the yak that …

January 12, 2023
Hob Nob Hill happy hour: Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey with a Mother Earth Nitro Vanilla Cream beer chaser

“Let me get this right,” I say to this fellow Jeff. “You’re offering me a shot of whiskey and a can of beer for $6. Six bucks?” “Yes, sir, that’s it,” says Jeff. He’s the …

December 29, 2022
Tom Shaw and heavenly transport on Imperial Avenue

Apostolic Prayer Temple, house of exaltation I came here, to the Apostolic Prayer Temple, a storefront in between a nightclub and a fish market in Encanto, to see the Rev. Tom Shaw in the Gospel …

December 18, 2022
Salk and pepper

“How to find the Salk Cafe?” replies this kindly professor type to my query. “And you’re walking? Ha! Head west on Gilman Drive. Turn right onto Mandeville Lane. Turn right onto Muir Lane. Turn left …

December 15, 2022
The Rabbit Hole: the sweet kick of the Rabbit Slider Duet with a Black Friday Eppig 6th Anniversary Imperial Schwarzbier

It took me years to realize that Welsh rarebit wasn’t eating about bunnies at all. A little while after I learned the truth, I was up in Oceanside — Mission San Luis Rey — at …

December 1, 2022

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