Tin Fork

Great, though not goat

The golden-brown steaming lake of birria sends wafts of beefy, spicy, cilantro-y, almost mole-ish richness swirling up my nostrils. And now the lime I’ve squirted on it makes it so purr-fect it almost sings as ...

Cinderella’d into Acme Southern Kitchen

Wow. What a difference from last time. I stuck my nose in in early January. This is near the old Central Library, Ninth and E. The sign, “Acme Southern Kitchen” was up, but inside it ...

Can afford to sin

Sapori makes Ed feel virtuous, light, healthy, and smug.

“Darlin’, best way you can help is getting your butt out of sight,” says Carla.

Fresh and fluffy

Ed gets a quick class in cheesemanship at Venissimo.

“It’s Hook’s cheddar. Costs $40 a pound. That would come to about $15 per sandwich.”

Sausage-wise

After a salad day, Ed sneaks a sausage at Fathom.

I sit here shivering. Ends of fingers white, no blood. Only my hands are warm. And that’s because I’ve got them wrapped around a toasty-warm glass of, uh, beer. No kidding! I was just as ...

Pork chops and nostalgia at YMCA’s Grand Central Café

Army & Navy brekky

“Don’t get me wrong. If I didn’t love my place up in the Hollywood Hills, I’d come live down here.”

Trust me. I’m a chef.

Ed gets protective of his egg-topped pizza in the Gaslamp.

“Hi there!” “Hello. Care to see...” I notice they target the man every time. Good strategy.

Nunu's, the hoppingest place

“Gimme the basic burger,” I say. “Uh, no,” says Leighanne.

Ed gets punched by a nubbly, crunchy, and salty burger at Nunu’s in Hillcrest.

Almost hog wild

Ed doesn’t pig out too much at Doña Tina’s kitchen

Hoo-wee! Zingy, but tasty. And this little pot of fire is a meal in itself.

May as well eat

Ed tries the Doormat at the Joint in Ocean Beach. It’s a sushi roll.

“Sushi chefs’d freak,” says Big John. “We have sushi that we just make up, like our Dr. Eel Good, the Betty, the Joint, the Mary Jane, the O’Beef. That has seared filet mignon on top…” ...

Sidewalk Sicilian

Ed roots out the hidden meat at Nicolosi’s

Perfect night for sitting out. If you have a heater. And that makes it a perfect night to be in El Cajon. Because, by my reckoning, the City of the Valley has the best sidewalk ...

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