I don’t think Ponsaty has fully found his footing here yet, after only a couple of months on-site. Oh, poor pitiful me, I guess I’ll have to drag myself back in a year or so to see how he’s progressed!
- 4.5 stars
- (Excellent to Extraordinary)
Loews Coronado Bay Resort, 4000 Coronado Bay Road, Coronado Silver Strand, 619-424-4000.
HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday 5:30–9:30 p.m.
PRICES: Starters, $7–$14; pasta/risotto, $19–$26; entrées, $25–$29; desserts, $7.50.
CUISINE AND BEVERAGES: French-California with herbs and some veggies organically grown on-site. Creative, interesting cocktails (not sugar-bombs). Wine list in flux, still plenty for any size budget.
PICK HITS: Ahi tuna tartare with cucumber aspic; foie gras Napoleon (special); Maine lobster consommé; sautéed wild sea bass; sweetbread-stuffed Kurobata pork loin; “French kiss” dessert; chocolate bon-bons.
NEED TO KNOW: Valet parking with restaurant validation at porte-cochere. Nice-casual clothing (no glitz). Spectacular view. Few vegetarian choices but kitchen will accommodate dietary restrictions.