Dorianne Laux 9 p.m., Aug. 27
Does this Mission Hills spot really have the BEST breakfast burritos?
I had heard through various channels some approximation of the following phrase:
“Oh! Dos Brasas in Mission Hills has the best breakfast burritos!”
Now, that’s a spurious claim. There’s more than one way to compose a breakfast burrito, and not everybody will like every variety equally, not to mention the fact that simply declaring something “the best” sets the bar impossibly high from the giddy-up. Nevertheless, the restaurant does advertise “delicious breakfast burritos” with huge, vinyl letters right on the window.
Other than that, it’s a worn-out spot with thick layers of paint built up over the years on all the surfaces and the sleepy assurance of a business that’s not going anywhere anytime soon.
Of the three dominant ingredients in most breakfast burritos (meat, potatoes, eggs), Dos Brasas’ are heavy on the meat. I worked my way through a chorizo “special breakfast” burrito (curiously priced at $4.18) that had more sausage than egg in it, which is impressive. It scorched my hands when I first picked it up, never mind getting close to taking a bite. Whomever cooked it up showed restraint on the potatoes and the effect was of a mass of salty chorizo bound together with egg and laced with a few 'taters.
I liked it, though I was tempted by the regular breakfast burrito with only beans, eggs, and cheese. Whether it was “the best” or not would be a matter of personal preference. People who like burritos that are heavy on the eggs (El Zarape springs to mind) will probably be disappointed, but meat lovers will concur with the rumors that Dos Brasas is great.
1890 San Diego Avenue