Walter Mencken 8:33 a.m., Nov. 21
Stand Bayou? Lincoln Park has Louisiana frogs a-fryin’
At last! Red Rooster’s specialty: Toad in the Hole-in-the-Wall…
Yes! Just frog-marched myself back to Euclid after discovering Frank in his hole-in-the-wall Louisiana food kitchen last week. He's behind Market Creek Plaza in Lincoln Park...
His business: Red Rooster Catfish, 404 Euclid Avenue, in the rear of the Jacobs Center, Suite #119, Lincoln Park, 619-795-8684. (Remember, you’ve gotta cross over the bridge, unless you have wheels.)
Had to go because last time I missed his two Bayou specialties: catfish and frogs’ legs.
This time I come up to his window-in-the-wall and ask for the frog legs.
Frank and Lisa are there all right...
And they have the little jumpers' legs today.
Am I a little chary?
Yes. ’Cause now I’ve had time to read up on them. This is the phrase that got me in Wikipedia: “frog muscle does not resolve rigor mortis as quickly as warm-blooded muscle (chicken, for example), so heat from cooking can cause fresh frog legs to twitch.”
Eating twitching frog legs? "Don't worry," says Frank. He’s from the Bayou. Should know this stuff.He goes off to cook and season, then brings me three “sets” of legs, like three joined pairs, thighs, webbed feet and all, with spicy deep-fried string beans. Costs $9.99, including tax.
One "set." Those plump thighs are more filling than you'd think. It's chicken but a bit tougher
“Jes’ think ‘Pond Chicken,’” he says. “That’s what we call them, back in the Bayou.”
So big breath. Because, well, getting your teeth into it feels like you’re violating some intimacy, as though you caught this little guy as he was about to jump…just before he, uh, croaked.
More in upcoming Tin Fork
More like this:
- Felix's BBQ: Eat your tomatoes - green — July 16, 2013
- One catfish at a time — March 13, 2013
- Tent City Intensity: Harry D’z BBQ sets I.B. nostrils a-twitch — Feb. 18, 2013
- Lincoln Park: Red Rooster’s got catfish, if you can find it — Feb. 1, 2013
- Scenes from the Gathering: The Truck from Louisiana — May 22, 2012