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Let's ignore, just for a second, the fact that the Sunday market in Hillcrest (it's by the DMV building on Normal Street and can't be missed) is one of the better places to score fresh fruit and vegetables in San Diego. Let's ignore that in order to focus on the taco stand in the food court.

It's in a double-wide tent in order to house the grill and long table filled with aguas frescas. There's the obligatory jamaica and horchata, but also some wonderfully refreshing alternatives with cucumber or watermelon as the primary flavors.

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Far and away the star of the show are the tacos de cabeza.

Maybe one of the ultimate street taco flavors, cabeza can be the best when it's good. All the flavorful, tender little bits and pieces that can be harvested from a cow's head, are stewed together in a rich sauce. It can be intoxicatingly flavorful. At the taco shop in the market, the cabeza tacos are top shelf. $5 buys three of the little tacos. Top them off simply with salsa and chopped onions and try not to let any of the juice escape.

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The cabeza is a must try for anyone who likes the stuff already or is curious about sampling some head meat. However, if cabeza seems a bit too adventurous, the stand also has chicken and carne asada for the taco meats, as well as a bunch of chiles rellenos for sale. It might be better to get there early in terms of chiles, however, since a long, hot day in the sun doesn't exactly make for the most inspiring chiles rellenos. The tacos, on the other hand, are perfect right up until the market closes at two.

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