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Just had the fillingest breakfast for $3.99 — at 8.30 at night. But that's Harry Kim. He's one of the two cooks you can see back there in the kitchen.

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Harry Kim

I thought he was just one of the kitchen crew. But no, he owns this venerable old-school Old Mill Family Restaurant (3949 Ohio St., North Park, 619-294-3804).

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Old Mill mural inside

Has for four years now. Believes in hands-on, Korean-style. He says “Give the customers what they want. I know. Thirty years in food. I tell the girls, ‘Service counts. Because here, we’re not on the beaten path.’”

He's right about that. Ohio ain't 30th and University. But they do have this great old Fifties Moderne barn and tons of parking. Full tonight with a fab array of old Cadillacs and Chryslers that make you think you’re in a total time warp.

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The inside’s packed with members of the Gay Antique Car Club. Rowdy bunch.

Basically it’s breakfast all day.

Mine is the special they have on the masthead neon sign outside.

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So I expected a kind of skimpy bargain, but no:

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Sophia brings a nice thick china plate loaded with plenty of eggs, good floppy pancakes and fresh-cooked bacon.

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Plus, plenty of company. Here at the nine-stool counter, you can chat with the ghosts of generations past, chomping beside you.

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Comments

Ed Bedford Sept. 16, 2011 @ 5:27 p.m.

Well I've had plenty in other places that's been lying around in a pile under the warmer for an hour or three getting tougher and gnarlier before they flopped it on my plate. Best, Ed.

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