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Stories by Ed Bedford

Mexico after the millenium

Smugglersville “The cops mess with us. The thieves mess with us. Everybody messes with us.” I was hobbling back from the store with a liter of milk, when I saw three young men sitting on …

Praga: Italian at a Czech restaurant in Mexico

Tijuana! It feels like a lifetime. I’m down here checking on when Caesar Hotel’s opening. (They say they’re looking at mid-July.) And, hey hey! There’s my fave cafe, Praga, right across Revolución. It’s not hard …

July 9, 2020
Corbin’s Q’s Scrumptiously SLO barbecue

“Honk for Barbecue,” says the sign outside. And hey, I’ll honk. Or I would, if I weren’t on a bus. Because now I’m curious. I remember this corner where El Cajon Boulevard meets Rolando. An …

July 2, 2020
Ballast Point’s Home Brew Mart: beer that burns

We’re at the source here. Where it all began. This is Home Brew Mart, Ballast Point’s original outlet in Morena-Linda Vista, right under the University of San Diego, that Catholic campus on a massif that …

June 25, 2020
Cumin and casino flavor Sycuan’s Rank & File

‘Baaa!” bleats the li’l white goat. “Humbug!” I say back to it. He’s stuck in a little corral off Dehesa (“Pasture”) Road. I’m stuck way the heck out here south of Alpine with nothing to …

June 17, 2020
Must-read- San Diego food stories

Between Slurps Hmm…menu has things like “amuse-bouches,” “tartines,” and “baguettes.” Where do I start? The tartines (“open-face toasted sandwiches with melted cheese”)? For eight bucks you get “two of your choice, served on arugula salad.” …

June 14, 2020
La Mesa stays strong at Farmer’s Table

La Mesa, six in the evening. This is 48 hours after “the events.” People are still cleaning up, boarding up, cheering each other up. After the human tsunami that swept through downtown La Mesa, it’s …

June 11, 2020
French breakfast at Zinqué Cafe

Zinqué. Guess I just like the crazy French name. It’s what French hipsters call a sidewalk bar where you can stop, slurp a beer standing at the counter, and carry on with your day. Now …

June 4, 2020
Bolt Brewery: predictably delish since 1987

Word got out this morning. “Today’s the day!” This was last Thursday. Everybody was talking about the reopening of restaurants for sit-down. So hey, I decided just to hop on the Orange Line, ride it …

May 28, 2020
Gihon Ethiopian Kitchen: Genesis of a meal

So last week, when the governor said “Restaurants can open,” did he mean like straightaway? “Let’s go see,” I say to my Scottish friend Annie. “Och,” she says. “Yer bum’s oot the windae!” Translation: You’re …

El Antojo: Best Cinco de Mayo ever

“On this site in 1897,” says one of those joke plaques, “nothing happened.” “Hey,” says Gary. “On this site in 2020 nothing happened either. This is the lamest Cinco de Mayo I’ve ever been at. …

May 14, 2020
Luminous waves at IB Forum

A group of us sits, staring to the west. “Is that one?” says Kelly. It’s sunset. But we’re not looking for green flashes. We’re looking for white flashes in the blue teeth of the waves. …

May 7, 2020
Rovino the Foodery: rotisserie chicken and wine

“Ninth, Ninth. Walk sign is on to cross Ninth, Ninth.” Listening to this every minutre or so is the one downside to my surprise discovery here on Market. An actual sidewalk cafe where you can …

April 30, 2020
East Village – built around a ballpark

Short-term rentals thrive in East Village Is the demand for housing suitable to fill the thousands of rental units that have sprung up in downtown's East Village since the mid-2000s, and enough to sustain even …

Bolt Brewery rebirth

‘Out! Out! I’m not having my car stunk up with fish and chips!” Sigh. These Scots. One minute they’re all about how they have the best fish and chips — “shark and taties” — in …

April 23, 2020
The 400-year-old cake at Northgate Gonzalez Market

The tilapia looks up at me mournfully. He has been battered and fried, but, oh man, he still looks disturbingly like his former self. On the other hand, at $3.99, who am I to refuse …

April 16, 2020
Hancock Street Cafe’s wild and crazy guy

I can’t believe it. But here’s the sign: “Hancock Street Cafe. Grand Reopening! Under New Management.” I swear. People are opening up all over (see last week’s column) in these worst of times. We’ve got …

Buona Forchetta makes the best of it in Coronado

Buona Forchetta couldn’t have picked a worse moment to open their new place at 10th and C in Coronado. But in a way, they’re having the best opening you could imagine. I know, because I …

April 2, 2020
In love with tikka masala at Himalayan House

‘Wash your hands!” says Hank. “If he says that one more time, I’m gonna...” growls Jim. No doubt, my buddy’s become a hand-wash missionary. He disappears off into the washrooms. Jim and I head for …

March 26, 2020
O’Brien’s pub: Pliny the Elder on tap

This restaurant-rich patch around Convoy and Balboa is one of my favorite areas in our fair city. So I’m glad to see business up here still looks just fine. Now, at 5 pm on March …

March 19, 2020
Solana Beach: artists and developers

Solana Beach seeks electricity options Last month, Solana Beach announced the hunt for a service provider to help launch the county’s first local power program, which aims to curb greenhouse gases. This month, a war …

Lunch with the People of Color Fungi Community

Bob Marley is everywhere. His music, his reggae colors, and his face in a picture with Makeda. “He was my friend,” says Makeda. “I produced his concert here in 1978. I was young, but I …

March 12, 2020
Rolled omelets and chilaquiles

‘It’s on me,” says Hank. “What’ll it be?” “This is a breakfast place, right?” “Closes at two,” says Hank. “Has wicked chilaquiles.” We’ve been hauling down 3rd Avenue into Chula Vista’s Old Town, right by …

March 5, 2020
Yellow Deli believer

A couple of years ago, up in Valley Center, I found this li’l farmhouse where the Twelve Tribes early Christian group had set up their shop and eatery, in the middle of nowhere. Fresh, healthy, …

February 27, 2020
A tale of two sushis at El Pez and Baja Oyster & Sushi Bar

When it comes to sushi, the Southland is definitely rising. I’m coming out into the sun from the dentist’s office, down here in the Otay area. Feeling a lot better. Ready to tackle — hey …

February 20, 2020
The Great Soup Experiment: Jalisco, Cafe 21, and Soup Du Jour

‘This is going to hurt,” says Dr. Jamie. “Like, for a week.” He has been fighting to haul out a stubborn molar of mine. That was yesterday. Today, in IB, on Palm Avenue, I still …

Let the ghosts of Flinn Springs swirl at Mary Etta’s Cafe

It’s a crisp, fresh morning on Olde Highway 80. I’m aboard the MTS’s 838 truck/bus heading east, looking for somewhere to break fast. “Mary Etta’s is a morning eatery,” says this lady sitting across from …

February 6, 2020
San Diego Idli: South Indian Vegetarian Cuisine

Little India. Black Mountain Road. Looking for an Indian grocery outlet. Gotta find my new favorite flavor to swipe on bread. Marmite. Surprise for my friend Annie. She’s Scottish. She let me try some of …

January 30, 2020
Skateworld: meals on wheels

‘Are you sure?” “Piece of cake. We’ll get right back into it. They’ll want us in Cirque du Soleil.” With my friend Annie again. ’Cause she’s usually up for anything. Went for a winter swim …

January 23, 2020
Da South In Ya Mouth ribs at a Chula Vista Mobil gas station

“Good wine needs no bush,” says Annie. We’re standing at a Mobil gas station, on the corner of 3rd and L in southern Chula Vista. “Say again?” I say. I know I know this phrase. …

January 16, 2020
Hooked On Crab in Eastlake

We came here for fish, but not this sort of fish. Hank brought his rod to this totally cute little pond surrounded by houses. The lake that gives Eastlake its name, he says. But what …

January 9, 2020
Did Joan Crawford own the bar at Brian’s 24?

Crack o’ dawn. Brand new day! Toughest task of new year — to start getting up early — accomplished! On the other hand, not totally together yet. I look up along deserted Sixth Avenue. Right …

January 2, 2020
Madeleine Cafe & Bakery: the French Starbucks

First order of the day: Do. Not. Look. In. The. Mirror. Bit too much celebrating lately. So, second order of the day: belly up for a cup of real French coffee at Madeleine’s. Because, well, …

December 26, 2019
Old Venice happy hour with Joe Biden look-alike

I blame my friend Annie for this. I mean I’ve been around, but she zips about in dizzying circles, social circles, the kind you read about in the glossy magazines. This day, I just had …

December 19, 2019
Good Moments Tea Bar: steamed burgers fusion

I sip my Kyoto Summer. I look down. A steamed burger? It comes out blanched, like a ghostly version of America’s favorite sandwich, but stuffed with a golden-crumbed chicken slab, Swiss cheese, and kimchi, and …

December 12, 2019
Cheese melting over like a Salvador Dali watch

What’s missing? I keep looking at this thing. But nothing’s amiss. It is a complete burger, with slab of meat, slab of red onion, slab of cheese melting over the patty like a Salvador Dali …

December 5, 2019
Pizza with Louie the Eclectus parrot

The kid stands mesmerized. He watches as Louie picks up his piece of pizza, starts picking off the colorful bits like tomato and cilantro, then crunches at the edges of the crust. Louie’s an Eclectus …

November 28, 2019
Facing East Noodle & Bar: Gizzards and Asahi beer

‘I’m from the Northwest,” says Lu Hong. She means Northwest China. “In Xinjiang, people like their food spicy and hot. Same like Szechuan. But this food here is from South-East China. More like Shanghai, where …

November 21, 2019
Harry’s Coffee Bar: led by Harry Rudolph Jr. and the Brooklyn Dodgers

Rosemarie is heads-down in her book, Sex, Lies, and Serious Money, by “NYT #1 best-selling author” Stuart Woods. (“Reads like a remake of Family Jewels,” says the dust jacket). She can do what she wants …

November 14, 2019
Try a Burek for breakfast at Balboa Perk European Coffeehouse

What is the difference? I’m sitting here trying to figure it out. Across Park Boulevard, there are two cafes, both smart, cool, new, and library-quiet, except for the piped music. Everyone in the modern building …

November 7, 2019
Mr. Peabody’s: I love this bar

Mr. Peabody’s gets right to the point. “Please: No Assholes. No Hookers. No Tweekers.” It’s on signs behind the bar. It’s on the backs of tee shirts the bar crew wear. But up here in …

October 31, 2019
Birria and bone marrow in deepest San Ysidro

‘Suck the marrow, drink the beans,” says the guy coming out. “And watch out: the birria squirts.” I’ve just walked the half mile down from the Beyer Blue Line trolley stop. Deepest San Ysidro. I …

October 24, 2019
Art history, Korean beef at The Prado

Little things mean a lot: the first little thing that makes me like this place is the, well, amuse-bouche. Wedges of crisp flatbread stacked vertically like surfboards. They have sesame and other seeds baked on …

The Hole In The Wall: Karaoke and tons of avocado cool it down

Flaco plays the flames like a conductor. He thrusts his hands into them and flips half a dozen patties in short order. Smoke bulges up like a Nevada test cloud. “Sundays are always crazy,” he …

October 10, 2019
A jolly holiday at Mary’s Family Restaurant

It’s Sunday morning. I’m in this mom and pop diner in downtown Oceanside. My friend Mary told me about it. Said it had won the prize — okay, in 2004 — for best cinnamon bun …

October 3, 2019
Cafe La Maze: star stopover for Clark Gable, Marlene Dietrich, Errol Flynn

So this young couple slipped into the dimpled red booth. “They sat apart. They were shy,” says Tula. But this is Cafe La Maze. Big portraits of Clark Gable and Carole Lombard and a bunch …

September 26, 2019
Sorrento Valley – what little there is

Lost roads of San Diego:Sorrento Rd., Smilax, Edelweis There was also once a Smilax Road in Sorrento Valley, one in a series of short roads named for local flora. It paralleled the railroad tracks on …

September 23, 2019
Blue Jay Lodge: right out of Davy Crockett!

These places! They all look right out of Davy Crockett! Where we’re heading is this 1919 lodge 6000 feet up on Mount Laguna, 100 years old this year, actually serving nosh and hauling grog up …

September 19, 2019
Happy hour at The Henry

I swear. You blink in Coronado, and something has changed. This time it’s the musical chairs of bars. Suddenly, as of this month, the brand-new and lavishly-built The Henry is open, beaming out lights, with …

September 12, 2019
Sab-E-Lee: Isaan expression for “Delicious and Spicy.”

‘What is the one dish you would take to a desert island if you had to eat it for the rest of your life?” Interviewers are always throwing this out at celebrity chefs. Tonight, what …

September 5, 2019

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