It’s not the ceviche we’re most accustomed to seeing around these parts. Most of the ceviche in San Diego draws its influence from a Mexican variation: citrus-cured seafood served with a tostada or tortilla chips, …
October 1, 2022
South America
South America
Ceviche and Secrets at Coya Peruvian
Three from this year’s Jewish film festival
Of special note from this year’s Jewish film festival: a trio of uniquely personal biodocs. The festival runs February 9-20. Visit the SDJFF website for more information. Eddy’s World (2020) What a joy! We open …
February 3, 2022
Villa Angostura, High Argentina
The seductive village of Villa Angostura sits between mountain and lake, Tahoe style, an hour north of Bariloche (also well worth your time) but a world apart. Villa Angostura lies on the famed Seven Lakes …
November 14, 2021
The essence of Montevideo in 48 hours
The capital and only major city of Uruguay doesn't get the acclaim of some neighbors – notably Buenos Aires and Punta del Este – but it's a vibrant and fascinating place, and if time is …
August 24, 2020
Manaus, Brazil: quick and cheap across the Meeting of Waters
June 2020 UPDATE: The Brazilian state of Amazonas has been hit particularly hard by the COVID-19 pandemic – with the capital, Manaus, having the only intensive care beds in the state. Read more about how …
June 21, 2020
El Bolsón and the Andes refugio system
My third trip to Patagonia was tremendous, great weather for all but one day and my best survey of the acclaimed mountain hostels that now number 15 in all. Once sleepy <a hreEl Bolson, fabled …
January 21, 2020
Wild Peninsula Valdez, Argentina
I first became aware of this enormous peninsula years ago when I heard about the burgeoning whale-watching attraction there. A thousand miles south of Buenos Aires on the south Atlantic coast, this region lies at …
June 30, 2019
Changing Colombia
Colombia: cartels and cocaine... rebel groups and terrorism... violent gangs and kidnappings. Those are some of the stereotypes, right? Well, although these problems haven't completely vanished, things have definitely improved to the point where most …
April 16, 2019
Cabo Polonio, bona fide best of Uruguay
There may well be other places like this, a scruffy village of dwellings on a cape which seems like it’s from another time, but I haven’t seen any. Most locations remind you of some other …
February 4, 2019
Life (and the party) go on in Rio
After months of continuous Olympic coverage two years ago, the questions still being asked about Rio de Janeiro likely include: "Wow! Rio looks incredible - is it really that beautiful?" And: "Wow! Is Rio really …
November 26, 2018
Salento, cream of Colombia's coffee country
Salento is an historic colonial town high in the mountains of the department of Quindio, situated 250 kilometers due south of Medellin. It used to be on the main route between Bogota and Popoyan even …
November 18, 2018
Escape to Minca, Colombia
It’s not the kind of place that comes to mind when thinking about Colombia, but a little mountain village called Minca gets my vote for best of honors. A slow 17 kilometers up and out …
September 9, 2018
Buenos Aires in 48 hours
It's surely one of the most impressive cities in South America, and a must-see for any traveler, even folks who prefer the countryside. Having said that, Buenos Aires is a gigantic mass of humanity, and …
July 8, 2018
Adventures in Bariloche: a Top 10
Known as the Tahoe of South America — and the portal to glorious Patagonia — San Carlos de Bariloche is worth spending a few kick-ass days in before continuing on to El Bolsón or Villa …
January 30, 2018
Whitney Shay's "away" game
A chance encounter at the Doheny Blues Festival two years ago proved to be a pivotal moment for North Park blues woman Whitney Shay, who met a Brazilian guitarist/concert promoter named Igor Prado. “A couple …
May 24, 2017