Restaurant Review

Gateway burger garnishes

To the dark side and back

Burgers. I love them. I’m a traditional sort. Acceptable toppings are lettuce, tomato, raw onion, American or cheddar cheese, and a smear of mayo. At least that’s what I told myself. Somewhere along the line, ...

Danger dog’s burger brother

Tijuana street vendors who offer a basic burger

The “danger dog” was born in the streets of Tijuana, then spread to Los Angeles (and beyond). Usually sold by unlicensed street vendors on improvised dirty grills, the weiner is typically a bacon-wrapped and deep-fried ...

Peppers, masa, coconuts, prickly pears

Flavorful finds at Northgate Gonzalez Market

I cannot claim to be an expert in chile peppers. Even as I type this, I am stuck on the spelling — is it chile or chili or chilli? Apparently all three are used interchangeably ...

$8.50 for toast?

Let’s call it an open-faced sandwich

The restaurant Trust has garnered fans and sparked a bit of conversation since launching a few months ago. But it’s not the only eatery to open on the ground floor of the city’s latest mixed-use ...

Pretty dang Jamaican

Barrio Logan gets Laylah’s

In the past few years, San Diego has experienced a bit of a Jamaican restaurant switcheroo. Last year Island Spice, a favorite of mine, moved from its longtime Grant Hill location up to Rolando. A ...

Everyone else in Tijuana seems to love this place

One disappointment after another

“If you don’t have anything to nice to say, don’t say anything at all.” It’s an English proverb that I tend not to follow. Family, friends, and strangers are always recommending places for me. I ...

Where does that meat come from?

Butcher shops are back, baby

I’m already on record as being in favor of the reemergence of the dedicated butcher shop. Since Sepulveda Meats and Provisions opened in my neighborhood, I’m even more enthusiastic. At one point, standalone butcher shops ...

Oh, those free-range birds

Late lunch in North Park

David and I finally made it to Encontro, in that magical empty hour between lunch and dinner. The restaurant is positioned at the corner of University Avenue and 30th Street, which puts it right in ...

Strong libations! You’ve been warned!

Drinks and a view at Bali Hai

When I’m stressed out, an ocean view is the tonic that I crave. There’s something so calming about that expanse of blue, the ripples on the surface, the wide openness of the water. Recently, after ...

Poke by any other name would not taste as sweet

Wherefore art thou, One N Half?

Right on trend, I noticed a new poke shop is about to open on University Avenue in North Park, and it’s got a terrible name. Poki One N Half does use an alternate spelling of ...

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