Restaurant Review

Like eating a cupcake for breakfast

Marvelous Muffins did muffins before they were cool

“Fifty years.” I had to ask her to repeat it, because she was telling me Marvelous Muffins had been open in Shelter Island for 50 years, and she’s owned it for 20 of them. That ...

“Lobster and ice cream…lobster and ice cream…”

The siren call of Supernatural Sandwiches

I’ve made no secret of my affection for a particular spicy lobster grilled cheese. When I heard Supernatural Sandwiches traded up to a larger storefront within its Miramar shopping strip, I found any excuse to ...

It can cleanse fish-and-chips with just one sip

Vinavanti Urban Winery’s BPN blanc de noir

Vinavanti Urban Winery’s tasting notes for their BPN get it mostly right. The quirky, pseudo blanc de noirs do indeed taste of raw cranberries and just-ripe raspberries. They fail to mention the green apple tint, ...

Toast doesn’t look like this, not in San Diego

Jake & Eggs pops up

There’s a sense of romance to the very concept of a pop-up restaurant. It’s got something to do with the special place the underdog holds in the American imagination. The term “small business” fills us ...

A neighborhood eatery in which the neighborhood had a say

Cucina Sorella comes to Kensington

Cucina Sorella (which means “sister” in Italian) offers the same warm and welcoming atmosphere we’ve come to expect from the other cucinas of the Urban Kitchen Group (Cucina Urbana, Cucina Enoteca), all overseen by owner ...

Overripe cherries, before the squirrels got to them

2011 Rivera Rupicolo at Proprietor’s Reserve

Since the state is shaped like a mitten, Michiganders often hold up their left hand so that they can point to where they’re from. Italians are generally too proud to point to a thigh-high boot, ...

If this place vanished off the face of the Earth…

Not enough value at Leña Craft Mexican

In the past, I’ve relied upon summing up any restaurant’s worth with a single question: Would I eat here again? I’ve considered that a foolproof barometer, an easy either/or situation for whether I could recommend ...

Actual corned beef hash

Mama Kat’s is busy for a reason

I’m a sucker for corned beef hash. I constantly order it, and I’m constantly disappointed. It’s offered on menus in breakfast diners all over the country, and I feel like I’ve tried them all. Sometimes ...

Nine hundred degrees of pizza

Nuanced Napoletana at Pummarò in Point Loma

Almost a year ago I relocated from the Westfield UTC area to Liberty Station. One of the most pleasant things about moving to that area is being able to walk to so many restaurants, bars, ...

A sushi bar without the bar

Super fish and not much else at Tokyo Deli

Sushi fanatics on a tight budget in SD have been lining up at one of three Sushi Deli restaurants for years, expecting to dig in to some reasonably good fish at reasonably good prices. So ...

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