Mexico

Even the dogs are down and out

La Zona Norte is a single-minded mistress.

It’s the end of the road for the Wild West, except the crooked sheriff now carries an automatic rifle, the saloon women dress like school girls (and might not be girls), the horse bandits use ...

Whatever you do, stay south of Calle Primera

Buda Burgers, in the bad part of town

The first time I tried a Buda Burger was two years ago. My roommate had left a half-eaten burger in the fridge, and I was hungry. He later gave me directions on how to find ...

Razor wire stops lots of border-fence jumpers

"We've been able to keep the illegal aliens and our people out of the hospital."

Recently installed razor wire along the border from Imperial Beach to San Ysidro has cut traumatic injuries to fence-jumpers by more than 70 percent. The need for border patrol agents to be stationed at hospitals ...

Bland food, fantastic view

Tijuana’s Cafe Aquamarino

Waves crashing, rooftop dogs barking, seagulls squawking, the banter between people (mostly in English), music playing in the background, improvised couches, random pillows and cushions, a long wooden table, a bookshelf with a sign that ...

Tastebud invasion by a Tijuana torta

Chomp of a lifetime

Five minutes later she arrives with my steaming torta. All wrapped in its own papoose.

Zonked out

Love for the Tijuana zebra from both sides

The zonkey business seems to be dying of natural causes, not because of animal rights activism.

To be Mexican

Reina's Story North County's sex slaves. In April 2001, 15-year-old Reina was leaving her home in Tenancingo, a high-plateau town west of Mexico City. She was happier than she’d been in a while, traveling north ...

Kitty and tea

An hour at Tijuana's cat café

“The Persian one, that’s Zed,” says Elizabeth Barajas, the founder of Bastet Cat Café, pointing at a napping kitty. “Zed is the house cat. He is always here and welcomes all the newcomers. More than ...

Peso falls at the same time as Chapo

The Chinese box method

“We need to find another news story for people to get distracted; we call it la caja China (Chinese box).” That’s a translated line from a Mexican movie that came out in 2014 named La ...

Tijuana’s quest for independence

Posada in Pasaje Rodríguez an occasion to present new era of politics

This month, an unprecedented race for mayor of Tijuana and district representatives will commence. An amendment made to the Mexican constitution in 2012 opened the door for independent candidates to seek office in 2016. Beginning ...

Deported veterans inspired by Bernie Sanders

Presidential candidate singles out group as due for justice

“I will expand the use of humanitarian parole to ensure the return of unjustly deported immigrants, including our veterans,” Bernie Sanders said in an address posted to YouTube the day before Thanksgiving. “The United States ...

Bread's got Baby Jesus

No "baby kisses" in roscas de reyes — sweetened dried fruit and other stuff

My parents woke me and my brothers up in the middle of the night when I was six years old in my hometown of Querétaro (1992). Three men dressed in robes, crowns, and white gloves ...

Arson attack at U.S. consulate in Tijuana

"Could be a resentful person" upset over having had a visa denied

An arsonist doused several vehicles parked at the U.S. consulate in Tijuana with gasoline during the early-morning hours of New Year's day and set them on fire, according to multiple press reports. The vehicles — ...

In praise of a seafood Tijuana favorite

Go for the red snapper tostada and stay for the Pulp Friction

The first time I went to La Corriente Cevicheria Nais was around five years ago, one of the first restaurants I visited in Tijuana. Back then, the sign that says how many red snapper tostadas ...

A slosh through Tijuana’s afterparty epicenter

The most Tijuana thing you can do is drink and debate what the most Tijuana thing you can do is

“Remember one thing: la city is not a utopia or a dystopia, it’s the afterparty where you hear the last call.” The words of the late Rafa Saavedra, a culture writer and champion of Tijuana ...

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