• Story alerts
  • Letter to Editor
  • Pin it

Cosmopolitan Hotel and Restaurant

2600 Calhoun Street, Old Town




I deliberately ignored the most recent previous incarnation of Old Town State Historic Park and everything in it. Oh, I did succumb to curiosity at one point, enough to have a margarita and a few bites at a Mexican restaurant, but I couldn’t bring myself to write about it. Everything was awful, especially the deep gloom at this once-festive end of the park. I’d had no love for the Casa de Turismo style of Mexican restaurants of the long-standing earlier regime, when this end of the park was an ongoing fiesta with running hot and cold mariachis playing to the big, happy crowds, but at least the atmosphere in those days was fun, the margaritas big, cold, and tasty.

Now everything at Old Town has changed again. A Chula Vista restaurateur/entrepreneur is running the park’s concession area. Better yet, the former Casa de Bandini has been remodeled within an inch of its life, restoring the stately old hotel that once occupied the spot. (Yes, you can actually stay there — wouldn’t that be fun?) People who knew it as Casa de Bandini can scarcely believe it’s the same place.

Best of all, at the Cosmopolitan Restaurant, which dominates the lower floor of the building, the chef is Amy DiBiase, whose work I enjoyed greatly at the late Roseville in Point Loma and at Laurel before that. Hire a good chef and good food is bound to follow.

It was a rare hot evening when my party and I arrived. We merely peeked at the inside dining room: old Spanish Inquisition–style decor (but well lighted), with tall leather chairs for the inquisitors/diners. But the patio, with its potted citrus and olive trees, flowering planters and central fire-pit, was the place for us to soak up the last of the day’s sunshine, shaded by a slotted overhang. We chose a red-tableclothed six-top for the four of us (regular posse members Lynne, Ben, and Mark) so that we, our purses, and our food could spread out comfortably.

Scattered around us, especially at the four-tops closest to the central fire-pit on the patio, were vacationers in their national costume of pastel shorts and light shirts. (No white lace dresses to match the hotel decor, alas.) On the lower level of the patio, a small band, with violin as lead instrument, played the decorous but lively music you might have heard in the hotel parlor in the 19th Century, ranging from “Für Elise” to “Oh, Susannah!” and “Erie Canal” and, to my happy amazement, the old British music-hall song “Champagne Ivy” (memorably sung by Miriam Hopkins as the doomed Cockney B-girl opposite Fredric March as Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde in Rouben Mamoulian’s 1931 masterpiece). Who knew that anybody still knew that tune?

We were already happy on that breezy patio. Delicious small rolls from Con Pane Bakery and spreadable butter increased our happiness, as did the bar list of largely forgotten old-time cocktails. I lasered in on a Ramos Fizz, one of my favorite cocktails (which until now, nobody local seemed to know how to make). Reputedly invented in New Orleans and here renamed Rum Raymos, with a switch from gin to rum as the central booze, it’s made with whipped egg whites, vanilla liqueur, soda, lime juice, and orange-flower water. Creamy on top, sweet and tangy, it deserves a revival. “Wow, this tastes like a liquid key-lime tart,” said Mark. At my urging, Lynne ordered the Lady Seeley’s Violette Fizz, which was a pretty red color but sour, not fizzy, and minus the creamy topping. (The guys ordered boring guy-drinks, worse luck to them.)

The appetizer list is longer than the choice of entrées, and we liked them better too. If I were here on my own dime, I’d consider a grazing meal of starters only, not just for economy’s sake but for maximal pleasure. But be aware that this is a seasonally determined menu, and some of our favorites may vanish as autumn comes on.

A white corn soup, both satisfying and intriguing, showcases three incarnations of corn. It’s a thick corn purée garnished with crisp tortilla strips, kernels of corn relish, and a pale green, slightly spicy translucent glaze of chile poblano cream atop the liquid. “I love the way the tortilla strips show off another form of corn in here,” said Ben.

Heirloom tomato salad is a cross between a caprese and a panzanella. It includes hunks of great, gooey burrata mozzarella and crisp bread croutons, with pickled red-onion strips; firm, pebbly-skinned cucumber slices; and a mint and pistou (basil and olive oil) dressing. The red and yellow tomato pieces, at the peak of ripeness, were intensely sweet — “but there’s not enough of them,” said Lynne. “And the croutons are too hard,” said Mark, “so they don’t really mix with the rest of the salad.” I couldn’t agree more. I love panzanella (Italian bread salad) best in the folk version, made with torn-up day-old Italian bread slices that absorb the dressing and go a little soggy.

“This just needs a little caviar on top,” said Ben with a devilish grin, tasting the house-cured salmon plated with a “tart” of heaped-up sliced potatoes. Poblano rajas (thin sautéed chili strips) lent a touch of spiciness atop the fish, while a tangle of watercress leaves and stems added a sharp green touch. Sitting shyly around the edges were a few small sections of fresh mandarin orange. A wonderful, slightly tart citrus crema sat alongside to spoon on at will. Many local kitchens have been making house-cured salmon, but this proved one of the best versions I’ve tasted, as bold and full-flavored as great sashimi. Yes, it might deserve a bit of caviar, but it doesn’t strictly need it.

Confit of suckling pig is served on a rectangular wooden board: a heap of shredded, succulent piglet-meat sits next to an ooze of warm, buttery, soft polenta, with a separate heap of arugula and fresh Mission figs (four figs to our plate, and I’d bet our terrific waiter made sure we wouldn’t be shorted). The combination is a delight, even as the polenta cools to a soft-textured solid.

  • Story alerts
  • Letter to Editor
  • Pin it

More from SDReader

More from the web

Comments

Rabid_Koala Sept. 10, 2010 @ 5:30 p.m.

I haven't been there since it was Casa de Bandini, there was NO way I was going to patronize the Delaware North disasters. I am glad that a local operator is once again running the place and I wish him well.

0

Sheryl Sept. 13, 2010 @ 3:43 p.m.

Great review -- it put a smile on my face! Now I have a place to take vistors in Old Town. Heck -- now I have some place to eat in Old Town!

0

rpyrke Sept. 16, 2010 @ 5:21 p.m.

We tried this last evening and didn't seem to get the same quality of food, perhaps due to a slow Wednesday evening. Service and atmosphere were good to excellent. Drinks were great as described. We loved the corn soup, house cured salmon was ok although the potatoes tasted not quite right. The Shreded Pork and Polenta was good. Tomato salad good. The Churros were undercooked and the server was very accommodating in replacing with the pear tart. Pear tart was mediocre. It may have been an off night and we did not try a main course and I don't want this to be too negative as we did have a good time there.

0

Cosmostinks Oct. 7, 2010 @ 11:38 a.m.

I am still grieving over the loss of one of San Diego's most beautiful and festive restaurants,Casa Bandini. Yes 7 million dollars later they ripped out all of the beautifull mature landscaping and fountains and put in this sterile, Hideous and expensive Eyesore. Here's a great idea! Take San Diego's most popular and profitable restraunt,dump 7 million of our tax dollars on it and make it an eyesore that is guarunteed to Fail!Oh you already did! Myself and my 100 friends will never be back. Perhaps when it Fails you can put it back the way we loved it, until then me and my friends will be avoiding all of Old Town, as it has been Ruined.

0

IslandGirl July 19, 2011 @ 9:39 p.m.

I, too, am a fan of the renovated Cosmopolitan Hotel and Restaurant - from the old fashioned lanterns and firepit in the evening to the colorful flowers AND GARDEN from which the chef selects various veggies and herbs daily. The menu goes beyond traditional Mexican fare (it's awesome) to include fresh fish, pasta and steak - a nice variety of both entrees and appetizers (try the Happy Hour shrimp taco on a flour tortilla - huge & delicious). My recent dinner selection of charred romaine, light dressing, included a perfectly prepared salmon fillet - simple yet out of this world! The drink selection is quite fun with some true classics, but don't miss their slightly "muddled" twist on their namesake, the Cosmopolitan! After 4 visits to the Cosmo, I was finally able to settle on a room selection (it's tough - do I want the copper tub for two, the fireplace, or...)for my holiday weekend!

0

Twister July 20, 2011 @ 9:02 a.m.

Unless they've radically changed in the last month, the only thing good about this place was the service. The wandering guitarrero was in good humor, and we horsed around with him a bit. The young man serving us was a competent, young, handsome, affable real man. At our table of four women and one man, we all agreed that is was the worst "Mexican" food we had eaten in years, perhaps decades. The women complained bitterly of the watery Margaritas. The chips we tasteless, the "salsa" without spirit or soul. We usually got to Berta's (not exactly Mexican, but South American) anyway, where there's parking. Sadly, Berta's has started to slip a bit from excellent, but it's still good and far from the amateurish concoctions at "Cosmopolitan."

0

Sign in to comment

Join our
newsletter list

Enter to win $25 at Broken Yolk Cafe

Each newsletter subscription
means another chance to win!

Close