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And after Heringer come the here-and-there parcels, some of it local, some of it not. “What I don’t want to do are one-offs. The first couple of years with grapes from a particular vineyard, you’re trying to learn, to dial in that fruit. Right now, we’re trying to develop a few vineyards here and there, find the best local microclimates for grapes. Pete Anderson, who works in vineyard development and is one of our stockholders, is trying to work with some people who might want an acre or two. If they produce two or three tons of fruit, we can support that.”

Five years in, Baker is still happy to be making wine in San Diego. “I come to work and I laugh — it’s hard to put a price on that. And we have parties, and a lot of the wine-club members will bring guests. We get to see the community, and it’s really cool.”

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