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The bump in quality may be real, but it seems the increased expense and rarity carry their own benefits. “At first, we said, ‘Oenothèque? No, not in nightclubs.’ But then we thought that you need to have this represented regardless — to have the three faces of the brand there. There are Asians who drink only Oenothèque. I said to one of my nightclub owners in Las Vegas, ‘Try the Black — in Asia, they refer to it as “Black Dom” — and let’s just see what happens.’ He said, ‘No, no — no one cares.’ I said, ‘Just take a three-bottle case.’ That was Wednesday. On Friday, he called and said, ‘I need to reorder.’ ”

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