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It is Baxter's hope that such series will help bring about that informed enthusiasm she admires, something to counter the rise of mass-market branding. She points to Dana Thomas's book Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, which chronicles the fashion world's shift from exclusive makers of excellent products to marketing masterminds selling an image to a starry-eyed public. "What does this tell us, class?" she asks, slipping into educator mode. "That there is a market for 'deluxe' throughout the world that is not being served, and on the flip side, that everybody wants a piece of 'deluxe.' How is this going to affect wine? Obviously, Asia is driving up the prices — there's not going to be enough Premiere Cru wine to go around for you and me at prices mere mortals can afford. What we have to do — and not only in wine, in life — is look for genuineness. How does genuineness occur? Is it vintner-driven, consumer-driven, a little bit of both? But if we have more informed consumers...People buy XYZ wine the way they buy XYZ car, bag, whatever. They feel comfortable buying a known brand; their friends will know they are not cheap. Wouldn't it be wonderful if you would just step outside the box and say, 'You might not like this, but I love it. It's different, and it's got history, it's got character, it's got culture'?"

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