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The list itself is Velovan's baby and reflects his devotion to being both crowd-pleasing and wide-ranging (domestic Tempranillo, Greek Moschofilero, Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay). Flights sell well, and winetender Kevin says that the Taz Pinot Noir from Santa Maria is probably the best-selling wine in the house.

An expanded food menu offers Pupus, Bentos, Grinds, and Afters. What to drink with the homemade honey-roasted peanut butter with Granny Smith apple wedges? "I can give you the textbook answer, if that's what you want," says Frantz, smiling. "If we're going to Mr. A's or Donovan's, and you want to know what to have with the macadamia-encrusted tilapia, I'm going to tell you that you need the '61 Chenin Blanc." For the apples, "You're probably going to want a Sauvignon Blanc," says Frantz, "or even something sweeter -- a Riesling, maybe -- that will bring out the citrus in the apple. But I sat out here and drank a big fat Merlot with it, and it was just as good. When most people say, 'What should I drink?' I say, 'What do you like?' It's just like in bartending -- when you ask, 'What should I have?' the first thing a bartender says is, 'Do you like sweet or sour?'"

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