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The map has changed considerably in the ensuing 20 years; it's gotten a lot more crowded, of course, and there's a lot more fretting over buzz and cult status as a means of standing out. But, says Beth, Spottswoode hasn't had to play the game. "We've always gotten really good scores from Parker, so I wouldn't say we're under the radar. But there's an incredibly successful model out there -- wineries that are inordinately successful" without much fanfare from the press. "Think of Groth, Duckhorn, Stag's Leap -- very strong brand names that have been around a long time. They don't need buzz to sell the wine; they have it. It's been created because they've done the work for 25 years or more. We sell absolutely everything we make, and demand remains extraordinarily high, and we feel really good about that."

So, when the 125th anniversary started looming, it seemed like a time to throw a party -- and to gather up some history. "I had so much," says Mary. "People gave me little clippings and pictures and things." They hired a historian to sift through the material and a graphic designer to make a book out of the best of it. "I think it's important to leave that for my family, so that everybody knows where we started from and what happened on the property. I think that too often, that stuff gets lost for the future generations. They never do have a history. It's kind of fun to have it all down here."

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