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No chef interview tonight, folks. We're done here. The chef of the evening was not at the stove but on the stage.

(This review is dedicated to Buddy Blue and Judith Moore.)

Anthology

** (Good)

1337 India Street (between A Street and Ash Street), Little Italy, 619-595-0300, anthologysd.com.

HOURS: Dinner Tuesday--Sunday, 5:30 p.m.--closing. (Kitchen closing time varies with the night's entertainment; typically 9:30 p.m. early in the week, 11:30 p.m. for big acts on weekends.)

PRICES: Appetizers $10--$21; entrées $19--$34. Desserts about $7.

CUISINE AND BEVERAGES: Seasonal menu of modern American cuisine with some Asian, Mexican, Mediterranean influences; fine ingredients, including local sustainably raised produce and natural meats. Mainly steep, mainly California wine list, very little under $45, lots by the glass and half-bottle, plus full bar with creative cocktails.

PICK HITS: Blue cheese soufflés, farmers' market salad, Brandt flat-iron steak, basil limoncello cocktail, all breads.

NEED TO KNOW: Pay parking lot on corner of A Street. Ground-floor bar and restaurant are wheelchair accessible; other venues up staircase. Cover charge most nights, requiring separate payment for tickets. Usually no cover Tuesday nights and some Sundays. Food-beverage minimums $15--$20. A few lacto-vegetarian appetizers, one vegetarian entrée. Reservations advised for parties larger than two.

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