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"You get to know them by letting them get to know the wines. People are still learning what they like; they don't have time. I do the work for them; I do the research. I do a lot of personal tastings at the table, an added feature to the dining experience. 'Is there anything on the list that piqued your interest -- something you'd like to try, even if you don't want to purchase it?' People love to taste wine, and it's complimentary. I'll bring three Pinots to the table -- we'll do light-, medium-, and full-bodied. They've just learned three new Pinots. I'll bring an Albarino to the table, talk them through the tasting: 'Are you getting apricot blossom, a little creaminess?' These are bright people; they get it -- the creativity of it, the artistry."

Evidence of trust: Krikorian has been able to sell undercard varietals such as Malbec, Aglianico, and Riesling by the glass to a crowd that, three years ago, was pretty solidly in the Chardonnay camp. (It probably doesn't hurt that a glass translates to about nine ounces.) The end result: "Wine sales have been climbing dramatically. Most nights, everyone will have a glass of wine on their table, or a bottle."

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