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And then, when he comes to find that Bernard Magrez, CEO of the monster negotiant William Pitters, is coming to Aniane in a project fronted by French actor Gerard Depardieu, Guibert rolls over and plays puppydog. "Depardieu's presence is a gift," he says, and then adds -- can he hear himself? -- "he's a fan of my wine." Oh, so that makes it okay? Asked about Magrez, Guibert acknowledges that Depardieu is coming "with the magic of his name and a guy who knows how to sell wine." "Is Magrez the French Mondavi?" asks the man behind the camera. No, silly, Mondavi doesn't need a movie star -- his own name is enough. But let's let Guibert answer. "Magrez...is a clever man who built a great business out of nothing." And that's different from Mondavi how? It is true that Magrez and Depardieu are not buying in the same spot as the Mondavis, nor on the same scale, but suddenly, Guibert seems on shakier ground.

Why go after Guibert? Because I want him to be right. But right and wrong is a complicated business in the wine business.

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