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If you're getting a whole pie (as in New York City, the only size option is 18" -- pizza-sized), you can choose from a typical range of toppings, including the dastardly pineapple and the wretched anchovy. In my experience (extensive by now), the veggies are better than the meats. Or for half the price, you can go for one of the pizza-dough sandwiches, huge in size and oozing with cheeses. The "meatball roll," for instance, is shaped like a loaf of Italian bread slashed crossways along the top, bubbling over with mozzarella, parmesan, ricotta, pizza sauce (with more on the side), and Luigi's version of meatballs, which are more like mildly seasoned meatloaf, but with so much cheese surrounding it, the meat's a mere bit player in the mixture.

The sole side dish is a house salad ($3.75), which is large, fresh, and terrific when naked. It comes with a choice of packaged dressings -- Italian, ranch, or blue cheese -- from a company called Rod's. To my taste, these run a gamut from appalling to inedible, 'cause I don't think corn syrup belongs in salad dressings, least of all near the top of the ingredients list. But since I'm getting takeout, I dump the Rod's packages and use a Bernstein's from the fridge.

Legal parking isn't easy to find, but if you're getting more than a slice, your remedy is the phone -- you can call in your order, and they'll have it ready for you when you come. If you live nearby, they'll even deliver, so long as your order totals $12.50 or more. Buon appetito!

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