Danielle Falknor 6:30 p.m., March 11
Stories by Ed Bedford
Search for Caribbean delicacy uncovers hidden fish taco treasure.
Honestly, it was the cow’s hoof. That’s the only reason I hopped off the Orange Line trolley at Encanto and headed for the rack of stores beneath the clay cliff that runs up the valley ...
The ghost comes and sits in Chanel’s husband’s chair. “I heard the chair creak. Then I looked, from ten feet away, right here by the curtain, and I saw it, the empty chair, bounce back ...
Bistro d’Asia in Coronado was a Mexican restaurant when Marilyn Monroe and Errol Flynn came to dine.
Ma Eugenia’s Kitchen in Logan Heights prepares several traditional stews daily.
Ed Bedford gets a burger at the Alamo Mexican Cafe and then hits Churchill Cigar Lounge before last call.
Ed leaves his order to Cool Hand Kate, Miss Sushi
Kate Murray went to sushi school against the advisement of men who told her raw fish begins cooking in women’s hands because they’re warmer than men’s.
Chris lifts up Guinness number 66. “I’m aiming for 100,” he says. “You get five free pints for every 100 pints you drink, and your name on that ‘Guinness Century Club’ plaque.” He indicates a ...
The Cheese Shop doesn’t specialize in cheese, they were too embarrassed to tell Mr. Cleese.
Ed unhinges his jaw and attacks a sandwich at Rubicon Deli. One of the most popular, says Caesar, is called the “Rich Boy.” (“Like a Po’ Boy, but better.”)
Ed Bedford and Elmer Niederfrank’s ghost approve of the ice cream being made in National City.
Restaurants you can take to heart.
There are some places that you kinda take to heart. They’re more than the dish or the deal. Something clicks about the people and the place, and you want to come back and be a part of it. These are just some.
Ed Bedford sniffs out the tostilocos (a newish Tijuana street food) in National City.
Slurpin’ at Pho Vinh Vietnamese Noodle House in deepest Chula Vista.
Bolillo aims to be as big with their tortas as Chipotle is with burritos.
A box of eggplant parmigiana (lots of cheese!) at Rosaria Pizza in Mission Beach
Ed Bedford ducks into the Egyptian Tea Room for a bite just before it changes hands.
“Californians drink wine by itself, like a cocktail. In France, we drink it always with food.”
Fond Comic-Con memories and a cod-taco plate at Tin Fish Gaslamp.
“First time I came here, the streets were for sailors and streetwalkers.”
Ed Bedford shows up too late for the cow-foot stew at Caribbean Taste Jamaican Restaurant.
Campo had a post at that three-freakin’-star Michelin restaurant, and he comes back to sell tacos?
“People started looking back, to find how they had survived pre–Burger King.”
Napizza arrives from Rome. “Slow is our thing. With yeast, more time equals more flavor.”
“Iraqis love big entrées. It’s the Lebanese who like to snack on different small tapas.”
Pierogies and banh mi — two specialty delicacies sold off San Diego food trucks.
“We grew up in there. Five sisters. Kitchen slaves!”
Three sisters — former “kitchen slaves” — opened their Cafe Di Roma in Imperial Beach.
“You might say it’s the French thing versus the German thing.”
Tiger! Tiger! Yeah, yeah, craft beer…and mushroom-lentil sandwiches?
“Urban India, in places like Mumbai — Bombay — is going Vadoosh! You’d say ‘Kaboom!’”
What’s with this “Urban” thing? There’s “Urbn,” the bar-eatery in North Park, “Urban Eats” on Fifth Avenue in Hillcrest, and now “Urban India,” near the Gaslamp. I noticed it walking down Fourth toward Broadway the ...
“Actually,” says Joe, “we were arguing over this, me and Doug, the kitchen manager.”
When they make wings out of pork parts and call it bar food, our cheap-eats guy is there to scarf it.
His one piece of advice to his son: “Don’t start a restaurant. You’ll never be able to relax.”
Afghan-inspired pizza at Zia — there will be eggplant and yogurt.
“My son Rudy started working here when he was 10. Now he’s 34 and the chef.”
Judy the Beauty on Duty’s Big Kitchen serves a big breakfast in South Park.
“It’s the end of the night, we can give you a half order for half price,” Nancy says.
Ed Bedford digs into some Filipino soul food at Villa Manila in National City.
“It is the true American food — a mix of African, Native American, French, Spanish, German...”
"Come sit here!" Southern hospitality hits San Diego. Darlene and Steven have just about finished their food, but as soon as they see me come into the courtyard, they toss out the invite. “We always ...
“We’re breaking even, which is a miracle in winter.”
"The usual,” she says. Kellie’s ahead of me in line. We’re standing between a bank of Canadian coffee dispensers and a Parisian street. Okay, a pretty darned convincing Parisian scene — on the wall. “I ...
“We never ask for anything in particular. Rosie just brings us what she feels like.”
"Kurios arene,” says Dave Rawley. He’s a Bible scholar carrying three heavy, worn Bibles. At least one’s in classical Greek. He’s been sitting and studying them over his Greek chicken, in the corner of the ...
“It’s been a rough one. I work 12 hours, seven days. My parents — and they’re in the restaurant business — said I was crazy doing this."
It’s about 9:00 at night. Wednesday. I hear a ripple of people clapping. I look in through the door of this café I’ve never noticed before. Place is filled. Can hear the thudded Ps of ...
“They were good, but too serious. We wanted the old-fashioned stuff.”
When I was eight years old, I gave up candy. My mom was scared of the whole sugar thing. Had us on All Bran, for roughage, to rush the dangerous stuff through. Guess she scared ...
“This is one of the original places we all fell in love with 20 years ago.”
‘Where have you been?” asks Carla when I get back. Okay, it’s a little late, and, uh, I failed to mention I was going down to TJ. Last-minute decision. I’d kinda given up on trying ...
“I started out leasing my own food truck. I was 20.”
Sunny, breezy day. Walking through the barrio, heading down César Chávez toward the trolley. Pass ye olde brick building that used to be Chuey’s bar-eatery. ’Course, for years it’s been Ryan Bros. coffee-roasting and sipping ...
“We brought these Oscartielle machines from Italy. We wanted this to be real.”
It’s the word that stops me. A new word on the awning of this old place. “Cremalose.” Huh? This is the San Diego Hardware building. The 100-year-old curved-glass windows of what was once a Woolworth’s ...
At the eatin’-contest table, a gang of guys and gals chants, “Eat! Eat! Eat! Eat!”
"What’s that guy eating?” yells Carla. “It looks ginormous!” “Say what?” “I said…” We’re shouting at each other at the new Nicky Rottens place in Coronado. Carla wanted to meet here at the bay end ...
“We’re not into coffeehouses like you. But you’d probably ask for a soup.”
Anastasia from Vladivostok brings my waffle. Melissa — her family is from Guam — hands me my coffee. The coffee’s Kona, from Hawaii. The waffle is from…heaven. Sigh. Love a surprise. Here I was, ambling ...
“Maybe it was a small gator,” I say. Maybe she’ll bang my face on the counter...
"Don’t rush me!” Dion’s voice cuts through the noise. She’s barking at a customer who wants to pay up and go. “Besides, you haven’t drunk enough yet. We have rules!” Dion walks away muttering, under ...
“Isn’t that crazy, hanging art like this in the bathroom?”
It hangs below four others like it, an ancient rifle from ancient wars. Did it kill people? Did it save someone’s life? As I stand in line waiting for coffee and something to eat, I ...
“We were riding the bayside bike track and came across it.”
If I’d known then what I know now, I might have stuck to life east of the I-5. I swear, what a hike. I get off the Blue Line trolley at 24th Street, National City. ...
“When you look in a gecko’s ear, you can see clear out the other side. True or [not]?”
"More people worldwide are killed by donkeys than die in plane crashes every year. True, or shit?” Tom’s standing on the stage where the band Napoleon Complex will be playing later tonight. This is Wednesday ...
“Cupboard’s bare, buddy. We have to stretch it till Friday.”
"Malagueña salerosa…” Krizanto sings his heart out. I chomp into my $5 dinner: ribs, carrots, broccoli, blob of mash, white-bread bun, and butter. Take a slurp of my $1 beer. Yeah, one Washington. In Old ...
“I used to have a ranch down Toluca way,” Guillermo says. “Lamb is very popular.”
Who says there’s no more new food to create? Last big food invention I can remember around here happened a century ago, when Caesar Cardini accidentally invented the Caesar Salad. But, hey, how about Michael ...