Charlie Morgenstern

Articles by Charlie Morgenstern

Pork knuckles and duck necks?

Don’t worry, there’s something for everyone

Everyone has that one friend. You know the one. The guy who likes to nibble at pickled duck feet. The girl who crunches slices of cold pig ear and offers to take yours “if you’re ...

How much more black could it be?

Dark Pugliese wines

Down in the sunblasted “heel” of Italy, grapes with thick, black skins flourish in the baking sunlight. The wines produced from such crops are quintessentially Italian in their boldness and, if I might go out ...

Warm summer nights, wine, and you

2014 Giocato Pinot Grigio at Royal Stone

Between the twist cap and the tongue-in-cheek copy and imagery — “Giocato is made by Aleks Simic, one of Europe’s greatest (and most humble) winemakers” on the back of the label, while the front depicts ...

Europeans and Asians eat mackerel and bonito

Americans have a narrow definition of what constitutes fine table fare

Fun Fact Number One: University Heights seafood counter Beerfish couldn’t get www.beerfish.com because some obscure rod and tackle outfit with the tagline “Worse for wear and overpriced” has it locked down. Fun Fact Number Two: ...

On French time

Parc Bistro

Since 1903, the only interruptions to the Tour de France have been the two World Wars. Every summer the world’s best cyclists complete a 21-day circuit of the hexagonal country, often dipping briefly into Spain, ...

It can cleanse fish-and-chips with just one sip

Vinavanti Urban Winery’s BPN blanc de noir

Vinavanti Urban Winery’s tasting notes for their BPN get it mostly right. The quirky, pseudo blanc de noirs do indeed taste of raw cranberries and just-ripe raspberries. They fail to mention the green apple tint, ...

Overripe cherries, before the squirrels got to them

2011 Rivera Rupicolo at Proprietor’s Reserve

Since the state is shaped like a mitten, Michiganders often hold up their left hand so that they can point to where they’re from. Italians are generally too proud to point to a thigh-high boot, ...

Hello, gorgeous

Fried chicken and wine at Marinade on Main

“Are we anticipating ketchup tonight?” This may be the most delightful phrase I’ve heard spoken by a server so far this year. The beauty of it is in the anticipation of the ketchup itself, rather ...

Assertive licorice

Tasting notes on Négociant Winery’s 2012 Sangiovese

In 2012, Utah’s happy hour ban went into effect, adding that state to a short list of others that consider special prices on alcoholic drinks a source of great social harm. Later that year, Hurricane ...

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