“Fried soft-shell crab plate...Soft-shell crab
dusted in flour and flash-fried. One crab, $11, two crabs, $16.”

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Soft-shell in the wilds of Kearny Mesa

Tarantula? The leggy thing lies on my plate staring up at me. Its ten legs claw out from under a shell of batter and a blob of tartar sauce. At least it’s not staring up ...

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