Posted June 12, 2012
Anger and grace tame the waves
Rising San Diego surf star Chris O’Rourke died from cancer in 1981. He was so good, surfing photographer Kirk Lee Aeder recently wrote book about him.
I've read the book and highly recommend it. It's a very powerful story that takes you through a variety of emotions and feelings towards Chris. His strong arm protection of his beach, his reef, is something most of us wouldn't understand, but his love of surfing and the ocean is truly inspirational. Kirk Aeder does a great job of giving us a window to the surfing culture during this era.
Matthew Lickona 4 p.m., Oct. 1
Matt Potter 3 p.m., Oct. 1
Dorian Hargrove 2:30 p.m., Oct. 1
Dave Good 2 p.m., Oct. 1
Dryw Keltz 1:30 p.m., Oct. 1
Jeff Smith 1 p.m., Oct. 1
Patrick Daugherty 12:30 p.m., Oct. 1
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