Name: Blair Dribben

Age: 26

Lives In: Pacific Beach

Pre-Surf Music: Anything

Post-Surf Food: Pizza

Blair says, “Surfing has been with me my whole life; it controls where I live. I moved here from Hawaii to explore Central California and Northern California.” His favorite West Coast break is Rincon, near Santa Barbara.

Here in San Diego, Blair frequents spots known for large waves.

“I love surfing the Cliffs and Black’s beach. Unfortunately, on a pretty solid day at Black’s, you see grown men fighting each other. It’s so crowded, and everyone gets in everyone else’s way. It totally throws the chi off in the line-up. You definitely have to make a name for yourself out there….

“I do think that people here need to regulate more. It can get insane. For example, Swami’s in the winter, when it’s big, can have, like, 80,000 people. It’s too crowded…. They need to have someone out there bringing people in, people that don’t belong out there, people who are inexperienced, people who don’t put in time.”

Growing up in Hawaiian beach houses with surf-obsessed uncles left Blair with an ascetic approach to the sport.

“All of my friends make fun of me in the winter because I never go out with them [at night]; I stay in so I can get up early and surf. This is something that I will do until I’m at least 60 or 70 years old. Surfing is the number-one priority in my life; I have lost two serious relationships over it. People just don’t understand.”

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