“I’ve been around boards my entire life. Surfboards, skateboards, snowboards...it’s what I really love,” says California newcomer Adam as he takes a break from a slow day surfing in Mission Beach.
“I’ve been surfing for about seven years and skating for the past five. It really helps my balance and control in the water. I got a surfing video for Christmas one year and fell in love. I took one lesson, and I was hooked. From there, I just started surfing on my own.”
Originally from Florida, Adam has been in San Diego for two weeks. So far, his impression is positive.
“People here are so nice. I’ve been yelled at before, and some people can be very rude. Not in San Diego; everyone here has a very relaxed surfing style. Even if they are professionals, they aren’t jerks. In Florida, people are so competitive and they have very different surfing styles…. Back home, the water is always warm but the waves are so small. Out here, you deal with some chilly water but there is usually decent surf.”
Adam intends to travel to Hawaii eventually.
“I know it’s where almost everyone wants to go, but the waves are incredible. The landscape is gorgeous, and I’ve heard that people are very friendly.”
The best place he has ever surfed?
“Oddly, it was in Half Moon Bay, which is near San Francisco. There were some great sets, just one after the next. The water was freezing, but it was so worth it. It was the best surf I’ve ever had.”
His worst surfing experience?
“Nothing bad has ever happened to me, but I always remember the first time I dropped in on a wave. It was so scary. It’s something I’m sure everyone would be afraid of. It can be intimidating to look down a wave and not know if you’re going to get pulled under. I guess that’s just what you’ve gotta try to do — not get sucked under.”
Surfing: Mission Beach
Pre-Surf Music: Sublime
Post-Surf Food: Chris’s Deli in Ocean Beach