A Canadian Swede surfs La Jolla Shores

Are you a Local?

No, I’m from Sweden but I live in Canada.

How long have you been surfing?

This is my 4th time surfing. I went to Portugal in 2019 and I did my first surf lesson there. I did two more surf lessons there this August. I’m here on vacation, so I rented a board today and came out here for my fourth time surfing.

Why did you decide that La Jolla Shores would be a good spot for your 4th time out?

Well, I read about a lot of beaches here [in San Diego]. I saw that this was a good beach for beginners.

Are there any other beaches you’d like to surf while you’re visiting San Diego?

I want to try Pacific Beach. I heard that is another good beach for beginners. I might go there tomorrow.

What was your first experience surfing like?

It was only a two-hour lesson, which I thought was good because [surfing] is exhausting! It’s a lot to take in. I remember, I stood up like three times. I was super proud of myself! Even though I didn’t take my second lesson for another two years, it made a big difference just knowing the basics.

What’s your biggest struggle in learning how to surf?

I’ve had a really hard time learning how to turn. That is what I want to learn before going out in big waves.

Do you have any fears when you’re out in the water?

Mostly just when it gets crowded, I worry that I am going to hit someone else. Since I can’t turn, I have to jump off if I approach someone.

Do you have any surf goals?

I just want to go out there and sit on my board and be able to catch waves.

What do love about surfing?

When you are out there it’s so relaxing—you are just so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing but still very thrilling and exciting.