Heritage and Home State bring a Texas twang to South O

Right up to the moment I park, I’m not sure which of South Oceanside’s new, Tex-inflected restaurants I’m going to try. But then, I spot them, just across from one another on Vista Way, where the 78 peters out at the South Coast Highway. In such convenient proximity, I may as well undo a notch on my belt and try ‘em both. It’s going to be that kind of day.

PLACE

Heritage Barbecue & Beer Co.

2002 S. Coast Hwy., Oceanside

Heritage Barbecue & Beer Co. arrived early in the spring, taking over the corner brewpub location originally built by Mason Ale Works, where house beers now pair with Texas BBQ.

HomeState opened with the arrival of summer, slinging Tex-Mex. Though both eateries represent out-of-town operations expanding into greater San Diego, curiously, neither arrived directly from Texas. Instead, each comes with a So Cal twist: HomeState started out in Hollywood, Heritage just across the border in Orange County.

That HomeState specializes in tacos makes it easier to blend into the local scenery, but there’s no mistaking a Texas lilt in the counter shop’s offerings of Frito pie (chili and fixins poured into a bag of Frito’s), and liberal use of the pourable cheesestuff known to Tex-Mex fans as queso.

A brisket taco on corn tortilla, and breakfast taco on flour tortilla

But a more subtle Texas offering made HomeState’s reputation its menu of breakfast tacos. Beginning with the “Trinity” taco of eggs, bacon, and cheddar cheese, they do not disappoint, thanks in large part to fresh, made in house tortillas. I opted for flour on my breakfast tacos and corn on my “anytime tacos” ($3.50-$5, both are served all day). In particular, I have to try the chopped brisket taco, because there’s nothing more Texas than smoked brisket.

Which brings me back to Heritage. It’s San Juan Capistrano restaurant has made a big impact in the Orange County food world, earning it Michelin “bib gourmand” recognition despite employing the low brow Texas BBQ tropes of aluminum trays, butcher paper, and picnic tables.

The bar and dining room at Heritage Barbecue

Heritage has not brought that sort of casual dining experience to Oceanside, however. This location shows up as a full service restaurant, complete with ceramic plates and deliberate presentation — even when you order a half pound of brisket ($17). You may also order pulled pork, spare ribs, hot links, and chicken, and both the brisket and pulled pork also turn up on sandwiches ($16-$18) and tacos ($8-$10).

There’s little need to wonder: the Heritage brisket proves considerably better than the one topping tacos at HomeState, and the Heritage salsa boast more heat at well. It likewise serves queso, and both restaurants serve another hallmark of Tex-Mex cooking: charro beans. HomeState adds them to tacos, while Heritage serves the spiced pinto bean dish mixed up with chopped brisket and cotija cheese ($8).

The charro beans are also a step up at Heritage. Not that I’m trying too hard to compare the two restaurants. Both are terrific, as advertised, and deliver different personalities.

The counter and dining room at HomeState

HomeState creates a breezy, casual Southwestern vibe in a casual space where you can line up and gorge on little tacos that come wrapped in foil. And that’s certainly an experience that tethers me to Southern California; one I would gleefully revisit every week.

Heritage brings something of an upscale casual experience: nice enough to sit and spend time gorging on smoked meats and drinking beer crafted by a former Pizza Port brewer. You might even encounter pickled vegetables, including ginger. Which, come to think of it, also feels pretty Southern California. I guess what I’m saying is, South Oceanside may look a little more Texas-ish than it did this time last year, but only in a way that’s compatible with our beach-loving lifestyle.